I have a 2011 300 six days with zero fastener issues. Just have to check rear spokes everyother ride. Front is fine.

Any new bike no matter what brand should be gone thru and checked......we are all human:D

Its on a '12, the small M5 bodywork bolts loosen up. Don't loctite, just antiseize, snug down tight, and use a strip of tape over the top.

Took some time to look at the kickstand issue. From what I can tell, seems to be a poor design. Yes the sidestand itself has the piece you can grease, however the bolt itself in order to be tight must be wrenched on and then tightens the sidestand itself. Strange I thought. So I got a replacement bolt and from the backside of the frame mount screwed in another bolt ( a short distance and with red loctite on it as well. I then put the new bolt with a washer on the outside and red loctite as well and installed that making it to the point where it is tight and butted up against the other bolt installed from the rear. I then took a grinder with a cutoff wheel and grinded the bolt off the back of the frame flush. Bingo. Seems to work perfect!! And now should work and stay perfect and not come loose. Total time app 5 minutes (well 10 or 15 as I was drinking a beer!) and around $2.00 for a couple different bolts. Think the problem and small issue is solved! Will get some more time on the bike this weekend. With a 05 200 and a 11 6 day 250 there for comparison. Not whining at all, but does seem like a small design flaw as it seems weird that the bolt to tighten it tightens the sidestand as well and everytime you lift or lower the sidestand it wants to work the bolt loose. The way I fixed it seems to be the right way to do it and will see what happens this weekend, but am very confident it will be maintenance free from this point on!!

I red loctitedthe kickstand bolt on my '12. No problems.

I probably could have done it that way and be fine. Just felt like the bolt should tighten against something. Either way probably fine.

I suggest using RTV silicone on small fasteners like that; it's sticky enough to keep them in place & seals them at the same time so water etc. doesn't get in and seize them. Been using RTV on a number of bikes for years with no issues.

I use blue loctite on all bolts holding metal parts together. Red when blue won't cut it.

The '12 body work hides a lot of trapped mud, so I got in the habit of removing the upper shrouds from the tank for a bath after a muddy ride. I can leave my front mounts attached and they just swing out of the way of the tank. Takes seconds. For this reason I don't loctite or RTV, just adds time and hassle. Honestly if you pre-ride check these they won't fall off. I only loctite steel/steel, like the kickstart bolt, or special internal engine fasteners, antiseize all steel/aluminum, and have religious pre-race checklist.

You need a set of JIS drivers, Google it big difference then a Philips which is not used on a carb.

http://www.instructables.com/files/d...PH0O.LARGE.jpg

just use the screwdriver that came in the tool kit, its JIS. I usually switch the carb screws to socket head cap screws but if you dont want to swap just use the supplied driver.

I did not get the tools....
So will use socket heads for now.

But thanks for info. Was not aware of the JIS.