It is shorter, because it routes behind the handle bars.

does the adjuster nut at the top stay in position? i'm assuming the adjuster cinches against the throttle housing and stays put? and as mentioned before - has no issues with clearing tank (since barrel at carb top on t3 is straight)?

Yes. the adjuster stays put and is easy to adjust with your bare fingers.

No issues except for the loose fitting rubber. I lifted the rubber, added a bead of silicone around the metal, and slid the rubber back down. It's sealed now.

I had a not so good experience with this cable. It was about time for a new throttle cable and I happened to see this thread so I went ahead and ordered one.

It does not fit well on my 2005 MC 250. The cable (not the housing) is too long. Even after winding out the adjusters on BOTH ends to what I would consider max safe extension I still had unacceptable freeplay in the throttle. I thought about resoldering the nub on the end but with my luck I woulda made it too short. Plus I'm not exactly sure what that solder is. Silver solder?

I also was not enthralled with the bend that the cable made under the tank as Stainless mentioned. Having to wind the adjuster way out exacerbated this problem. I might have been able to live with that if adjuster was all the way in.

Maybe I got an outlier, but I'll be sticking with the stock set-up from here on out...

Anyone want to buy a brand new T3?

I've had good luck with the GG specific MP replacement cables, and one of those went on my '12 and fits well with the Flexx Bars.

I had an issue with a normal motionpro cable where the opposite occurred and the outer case was too long meaning I could never effectively get the carb slide to bottom out. I'll have to trim it back a little. I also have a T3 here to try. Hope its a better fit.

I just fitted the 5.5 longer T3 and its excellent. Thumbs up for cable on 2011 EC300.

Not sure if its been mentioned or not yet, but these T3 cables seem to have one weakness. The rubber cover at the top of the carb doesn't seal well enough to keep water out. After washing my bike, starting it, warming and leaving it for a few days I went to make a jetting change and found the slide all but full of water. Only a little drop in the bowl drain plug. Its either snuck past the seal when crossing a creek, or filled up while washing. I have put a bit of tie wire around it to tighten it up at the top and packed the opening with some water proof grease. Ideally a dab of silicone would be the go but I only had RTV red high temp and would prefer clear for asthetic reasons :o

I got a T3 cable and attempted to fit it to my '11 300, however I have a Clarke 12l tank fitted and with the straight connection to the carb instead of the bent connection of the stock cable the tank won't clear it and places a lot of pressure on the cable. I've gone back to the stock tank and haven't tried it again but I'd prefer it if I could just get one of these cables with the bend. Anyone know if I can?