Choke cable eliminator
 

Don't fancy the choke lever up on the clutch master cylinder.
Lookey here.......

http://translate.google.com/translat...es%2Fprod-1049

I thinky wrong linky. ;)

I thinky you clicky wrong.;) It worked for me.

I know how to clicky, I do right! Thats funny, yesterday it went to the e start link in the other thread, works now. Must have been some kind of Husamirage.

It did the same for me yesterday REV:confused::confused:

I fixy the linky this morning.

LOL Reverup! You hater you!:p Gas Gas still runs through my veins.:D I did the same thing to MattR when he bought his KTM 200. LOL

You probably knew sooner or later...... it was just a matter of time. ;) :D

The cable operated choke is it's a designed for hare & hound dead engine starts...I could have used it a week ago.
One of the race rules was you could't start your bike (at all) prior to you leaving the start line.
That meant no morning bike warm ups, we had to push the bikes to line and wait for the start...so reaching down to play with the choke at the start was a hassle.

You mean you couldn't warm the bike in the pits(without riding it), and had to do a WFO holeshot on a cold motor? So I guess in gear starts are out of the question then with a cold sticky clutch! What is the logic behind that, noise control? We just have an AM and PM quiet time in the pits when no bikes can be started.

I really like the cable choke. I blew up my 300EXC a few yrs back running down a bean field during an enduro. My jetting was on the edge and it was a little on the cold side. If I had the cable choke I could just flip the lever while running WFO and save the motor.

Yep, that would have been the ticket . Years ago when riding 125's in the enduro's, I would use the kill button at WFO out on the road sections. It was just too risky to take my hand off the bars, reaching for the choke.

When I first got my XC 300 I wasn't sure about the choke on the bars...
I have to tell ya it only took a couple of rides before I was sold on the handle bar thingy... Works just fine.:D

Dave Fair from GasGas Pacific has the eliminator in stock if you want one PDQ.


Ya my TE510 was running a bit rough...on a commute to work one morning...til I figured out I left the choke on. Never happen with the handlebar thingy.

Could come in handy for guys doing ISDE rules events.
Ya know with the cold start and advancing your bike across the 66' line in 60 seconds under its own power. Save yourself a quick 20 points right there.:cool:

Roscoe

Honestly, I don't know...my first H&H, I thought it was weird too.
They could have at least gave us a 5-minute warm-up on the line, shut them all down and then do the dead engine start.
Can't complain though I took 2nd in the vet class, which was cool to have my GG beat out a sea of KTMs

Did you really just call em a Sea of KTM's.

The correct term would be a patch of KTM's.... as in Pumpkin patch. Bahahawwaah!:D ok! ok! that was uncalled for, I just couldn't help myself.

Geoff at AZ MotoCity removed his leverette (as a quick trail fix) because it kept sticking partially choked. I'm not sure if he is going to fix it or install a conventional choke. Arizona is so toasty warm most of the time that it's not a big issue.

The less cables and wires on the bike the better from a reliability perspective. If its not absolutely needed or a distinct advantage then why have it IMO. One more thing to get ripped off in a stick farm, possibly taking your clutch resevoir lid with it. Even in NJ spring and fall, we only need to choke in the morning for the first start.

The kill button tap is an old desert racers trick. I do it on long fast road sections myself.

I went to the link in case I end up with a 2011 and have a question. In step 2, what kind if "fat" do you put in the "o" ring LOL!!!

We have 10 of the "choke cable eliminators" in stock if anybody needs one.

Mine stuck once, but I use it all the time while WFO in a wash. It is nice to richen up a bit when I feel the need. Now I know how it feels when the problem happens, and all I had to do was pull the lever a little harder to make it unstick. For now I'm keeping the lever.

What is sticking? The internal cable itself? Not enough spring to get it back?

Or is the cable housing slipping out of the nipple?

If the latter, I would try safety-wiring it in place.

My bike has also recently developed similar problems with the bike running fine on low revs, then spluttering and just not getting into powerband properly

So i stripped the carb and cleaned it out properly checked float level, but now i am suspecting that the choke is getting pulled out and not closing.

As i am not in the US how can i convert back to a normal choke on the carb?

mine was always getting stuck half open and was getting quite annoying so i went back to the carb mounted choke as well

I bought a regular choke from Carb Parts Warehouse in Cleveland, Ohio. 216-635-1099. Cost me $25.00. Just unscrew the cable operated unit from the carb and screw in the new choke. You don't have to modify anything and you still have the complete cable unit if you want to go back to it.

I was thinking that would work. Thanks for verifying it.

Sudco sells them too, also around $25

I got a choke knob from BikeBandit.com for $16.41
Here's the ordering info......

"PLUNGER, STARTER

1193092 (282891-001)
Yamaha 2006 YZ250V YZ250 CARBURETOR "

Excellent. Thanks for posting.