Keihin PWK Needle Chart
 

A fellow member (jhendr3702) sent this needle chart to me. It provides a nice description of the needle codes for Keihin PWK carbs. I'm creating a "sticky" for future reference.

CLICK ON THE THUMBNAIL BELOW TO ENLARGE:

Much better than the poor images from elsewhere. Thanks

Which Needles?
 

I purchased a used 2003 EC250 and with it is an envolope full of jets and needles. After searching the web I have not found any clear information regarding the needles I now posses. They are as follows: N1EC, N1EG, N1EE, and NBHK. Can anyone help me as to what needles these are? Thanks

Just in case you haven't found your answer, yet, I thought I'd reply.
the jet needles that GasGas put in the Keihin carbs were the "N1E" series.
The N1EC, N1ED, N1EE, and N1EF (progressively leaner as you go down the alphabet) were what came in the older models. Around 2005, we started seeing the N1EG jet needles.

In this series, I prefer the N1EG. When we started using that needle, we were finally able to get our bikes to idle without bottoming out the throttle stop screw. In my 2006 DE300, I ran it with the "Jesus clip" in the second groove from the top. (along with a 42 pilot and a 175 or 178 main, according to the temps outside).

I don't have a chart, so I'm not sure of the NBHK.

Matt,
Thanks again for posting the chart. It sure has come in handy.

Good Riding!
Jim

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Gas gas ec 300 2009
 

Hey I noticed this post and was hoping you could help me I have a gas gas ec300 09 I am trying to get It to run a bit ritcher and have limited knowledge on how to jet my carb it is a kehnin pwk 38 mm the previous owner told me he had changed the needle on inspection I found a needle stamped chn I also got the other needle which is a n1ef I contacted gas gas and they told me the stock needle is a n1eg I am lost as to what to do next I haven't checked my main jet yet I thought I could just lift my needle 1 clip position but it was already at the top I only suspect it is running lean because my exhaust has no oily residue at all and has a slightly brown tinge not grey the spark plug dosent look to bad just chacole black I would apriceate any advice

list what elevation range u ride,your avg temp range,what fuel octane/oil ratio u use,clip position and what jets u have now,(slide # if able) and someone will have a good starting suggestion.alternatively trawl thru the jetting database for similar bike operating in similar conditions to get an idea.how does it feel riding it?any starting/idle issues?bogging when you crack open quickly?the n1eg is I think 1 step leaner in diameter than n1ef(assuming your main is stock?)dont know about the chn.when you say the needle is at the top(highest/richest position)you mean the clip is in the lowest slot right?clip in top slot is leanest,lowest needle position.just wondering as the needle in it(n1ef)is richer than stock(n1eg),and would be surprising if it needed the richest clip slot also

Thanks for the quick reply I checked the jets today I currently run the chn needle clip on bottom slot (richest)a #7 slide a 175 main and 40 pilot I run 50.1 mix with the highest octain fule available usually 98 or 96 and always at sea level temperature usualy about 25 degrees c or 77 f according to gas gas the stock nedle is a n1eg and the pilot is a 35 everything else is as above to be honest I have found the bike to perform exeptionaly well all round so I don't want to make drastic changes i would like to make it run just slightly richer all round I have tried putting the n1ef nedel on the top clip position ( leanest) this needle is alot thinner than the chn but this makes it idel rough and smoke a lot I'm guessing its to rich I'm tempted to buy the n1eg needle and try that but would like a second opinion I don't expect the bike to be perfect just want it to last a long time
Its in imaculate condition its pretty much bran new has only done 700 km of road use and is now being used off road I really want to jet it and leave it alone ill mesure the chn needle tomorrow thanks again for your intrest its really apriciated

CHN is WAAAAAY too lean. It comes with the bike to be used with emissions control measures (choked up air intake and catylic converter in the pipe). I doubt you have these, but worth checking.

Check the carb model - AS1 or AS2.
Check the float for said model, and request a starting point.
Stock needles rarely fit the bill.

Good to know i won't be putting that needle back in I am certan I don't have emission pipe and catalatic converter just a stock long muffler unless the cat is built into that I how do I request a starting point should I start a new discussion what's your thoughts on going for the n1eg needle would it be richer than the chn?

If you have the AS2 carburetor, which has the screws holding down the top of the carburetor instead of the top being threaded and screwing onto the carb (AS1), you will want to go to a different jet needle than the N1EG.

If you have the older AS1 carburetor, Try the N1EG with the clip in the second groove from the top, a 42 pilot, and your 175 main jet. This is what I used on my 2006 DE300 with the AS1 carburetor.

If you have the AS2 carburetor, then get a Suzuki RM250 or a YZ250 needle, such as a NEDW or NEDJ (what I use) with a 40 or a 42 (what I am using) pilot jet and the 175 main jet. That should be a good startiing point for your jetting.

Also do I check the floats for markings as to what model carb it is

Keihin PWK Needle Chart
 

The float level adjustment is what Jakobi is referring too. Look at the top of your carburetor and tell us what it looks like. Also need to determine if it is a 36 or 38 mm. Should be stamped on the carb body somewhere


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Great i will get a Nedj needle and give that a go its got 2 screws holding the top on glad u said that because I wasnt looking forward to trying to get the bowl off again to check the floats I'll get back to you with my results if u have any more thoughts on this let me no i realy apriciate all the help

Float height for the AS is 6.5mm, but we've found setting it to 7.5-8mm improves everything and doesn't starv it for fuel. See the sticky in this subsection.

you will need to take bowl off to set float,and remove carb to do it prop.might be easier to try nedj needle first,see how it goes,then if necessary remove carb and check float level(a little fiddly to get exact).does fuel overflow tube run when bike leaned sideways?(45 degrees).the ned? series needles give nice smooth delivery,consequently the 'hit' may feel a little softer,although its prob not

Thats what I was thinking I will get a nedj needle run my 175 main and check before adjusting my float i hope its not nessasary have never noticed it starve of fule although I presume it could when i change needel the carb never overflows I dont think I have seen a drip come out ever.as long as it doesn't do either it shouldnt need adjusting right? Do you think there is anything else I should get at the same time maby a nedw I have 4 main jets and 4 pilots all the ones mentioned just a couple more things should I take the muffler off and poke something down to check for a spark arestor or cat and i have been told to run it on 40.1 by a friend but I don't realy want to because gas gas manual states 50.1 and if jetted correctly this should be fine right? I presume that is what you guys run?

Oil ratio is a personal thing. Anywhere from 40:1 to 50:1 would be standard. Some run more oil, some run less. The important thing is that there is enough oil in circulation to keep the parts lubricated, and that you stick to a brand of oil at a certain ratio and then jet around that (not vice versa).

40:1 for me,for peace of mind,and cause that's the recommendation on the belray h1r.which oil?what does it say on the bottle?

Trying to order a NE1G needle for my AS1 carb. Going to the Keihin order sheet and I have no idea what the corresponding code is for that needle....anyone have an idea?

This is what I go to when it comes time for Jetting.

http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_car...n_N427-48.html

And

http://www.kyajet.de/

For the AS1, I preferred the N1EG; however several of my customers preferred the Keihin DDK (or close) jet needles.

I always got my N1EG needles for the AS1 carbs through GasGas parts, but it is a 1998 Kawasaki KX250 series jet needle.
Part #16009-1764 (NEEDLE-JET,N1EG) parts diagram reference #16009F
1998 was the last year for which I saw the needle listed.

I checked two parts suppliers, Bike Bandit and Rocky Mountain ATV, but neither of them show the jet needle as being available.
A Kawasaki dealer may be able to help you.

Good luck and good Riding to you!
Jim


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Fantastic...thx

They are OEM for KTM/TM and other brands too.. Should be widely available.

2016 KTM 250SX -
Jet Needle Keihin N1eg 06
54831135200

http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/...524/carburetor

Great post thanks for sharing

Ideling
 

Ok so I got the same issue. Bought a 2005 G EC300. Can't make it idle for the life of me. Finally bit the bullet and opened up the carb. I'm running an N1EF needle on the last notch. A 35 main and a 170 idle at around 500 ft, above sea level. From What I've read here that seems very lean. I like it's power delivery everywhere except idle, but I've never ridden it tuned perfectly evidently. It may be even better tuned right. Anyone got a good base line to go with? Getting this carb out, or doing anything with this thing is an ordeal. Not impressed with the design. First European bike I've ever had. Jap bikes are easy to work on.

The AS1 (Air Striker 1) carburetor, which came on the earlier model GasGas bikes need to be jetted richer than the AS2 (Air Striker 2) carburetors that came on the later model GasGas off-road bikes. The AS1 on your bike has a screw on top above the slide. The AS2 has screws holding down the top. Don't run the super lean main jets with your cab. To get your bike to idle, you need a richer pilot jet and a different jet needle from the GasGas stock N1E series of jet needles.

Now, to re-jet your carburetor's slide and main jet, you don't have to remove the carb from the bike. Take off your seat, disconnect the fuel line from the carb, and remove the rear retaining strap for the tank.
Lift up the rear of the tank and keep it up with the handle of a screwdriver or a block (or something 1 1/2" thick).
Loosen the clamp on the connection between the rubber adapter and the reed valve/intake manifold; and rotate the carburetor to point it's top to the left side of the bike.
You can now take off the top of the carburetor and remove the slide and jet needle for adjustment, etc.
While the top is off the carb, rotate it the other way, and you will be able to access the main jet by removing the plug in the bottom of the float bowl.
To access and change the pilot jet, you will need to remove the float bowl.

To get your bike to idle, using the AS1 carb, I would suggest either a 42 or 45 pilot jet, 178 main jet, and a jet needle such as a NECW, or NEDJ. (your choice will be determined by how you want the power delivered as the rpms build.) There are a lot of good jet needles that will work. You just have to find the one which works best for your use by experimentation.
Start off with the Jesus clip in the second groove from the top of the jet needle. Work from thereto fine tune it. I call it the Jesus clip, because if it's tendency to fly across the room, or down into the leaves when working trailside; prompting me to yell,"Jesus!" :)

One thing to watch for when tilting the carb to work on it; with the float bowl removed while the carb is on its side, the pivot pin for the floats will sometimes fall out.

Good Riding and Wrenching to you!
Jim

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My needle shows to be a N1EF. I've yet to find that needle marking on any Keihin site. Stock needle shows to be 48-DDJ.
Stock jets should have been 55/170
Is the N1EF some after market needle? i don't find the needles NECW, or NEDJ you recommended either. I'm missing something somewhere. I'm looking at OEM Keihin parts.

The 170 main jet will not be large enough, even in hot weather for your bike. Your AS1 carburetor demands more fuel at open throttle high rpm running. People running the 170 main jet are using the AS2 carburetors, and not running WFO for 10 seconds or longer. I never used anything smaller than a 175 main jet in a GasGas bike with an AS1 carburetor for anything other than jetting tests.

A 50 or 55 pilot jet will have most off-road riders fouling plugs quickly and repeatedly, as their riding is often still partially using the idle circuit.
Good acceleration, yes. Clean bottom end running, no. Try a 42 pilot jet first, and if you still want to go larger, try a 45. (I got a better drag race result using a 45, but got longer plug life and less exhaust spooge witha 42. Below a 42, I couldn't get the bikes with the AS1 carb to idle at all without raising the slide and needle out of the strictly idle circuit of the carb with the throttle stop screw.

The N1ED, N1EF, N1EG jet needles are not from Keihin. They are from Kawasaki for a 1998 KX250. You can see them in the OEM parts lists on major parts houses such as rockymountainatv.com (and others) as "optional" jet needles. They are for racing MX, and not meant to idle or be especially smooth in their transition from low rpm to mid-range.

Additionally, the other jet needles mentioned in the forum (and in my post above) can be found the same way; by looking in the OEM Parts diagrams in online retailers' web sites for optional jet needles for YZ250 and RM250 2-stroke bikes. That's where I found the NEDJ and NECW jet needles.
You'll have to look at specific years of the YZ250 and RM250 to find all the selections of jet needles for the Air Striker Keihin carbs that we are talking about. (unless someone here can point you to a specific model for a specific jet needle). These jet needles are not available from Keihin as OEM Keihin needles. Those jet needles are the DDK, DDL, and such that you will see in the Sudco catalog.

Good luck and good riding!
Jim


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The std N1FE needs modification with some beefy cutters. Divide it into 2 or 3 equal parts by your preference.

Right. Now you are ready to start, unhindered by having it to hand as a distraction. Read excellent advice above.

While you have the slide out, turn it upside down and see what number is on it. The earlier 250 & 300s came with a #7 (7mm cutaway on the bottom). The cutaway of the slide regulates the carburetor's air flow at idle.