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-   -   TUBliss gen2 (http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23142)

Stamper 11-30-2017 01:05 PM

TUBliss gen2
 
Hi, just wondering does anyone run TUBliss gen2? What's your experiences, are mouses better? If so, what brand.
TIA

hadfield4wd 11-30-2017 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stamper (Post 180245)
Hi, just wondering does anyone run TUBliss gen2? What's your experiences, are mouses better? If so, what brand.

TIA



I run both. I have Gen2’s on my sons bike and nitro mousse on my bike.

I have only about 5 rides on the mousse so far.

You can change pressure on the Gen2’s and run really low, however I have a total of 2 plugs in the rear tire and 1 in the front. While the repair is simple and faster than changing a tube I went with the mousse to eliminate needing to stop at all.

Initially the mousse is much firmer.

Also I’m not running identical tires yet either. Next set of tires for my sons bike will be the same as mine. I’ll be able to give a full review then.

Neil E. 11-30-2017 01:45 PM

I have the Tubliss Gen 2. Noticeably more expensive than Gen 1, but has thicker material on the inner tube. Everthing else looks the same.

My Gen 1 front inner tube failed where the high pressure valve stem is located. The valve stem is above the inside of the rim due to the valve stem nut thickness. This nut is essential since the stem is a constant diameter. The nut prevents the stem from extruding out the rim hole when pressurized.

The height difference stretches the inner tube more when it expands under pressure. The same failure point was evident in the rear Gen 1 tube, it just had not failed yet. The extra thickness of the Gen 2 tube should reduce this tendency. I also machined the stem nut to better fit the rim to reduce the height difference and improve the situation.

The Tubliss works well; however you need to check the high pressure side every few weeks. It bleeds down gradually; mine goes from 100psi to 80psi in 3-4 weeks. On the low pressure side I run 12psi front and 8psi rear. The low pressure does not vary.

I have no experience with a mousse. The mousse is likely a simpler system and might be less effort overall.

swazi_matt 11-30-2017 03:26 PM

If you like the feel and benefits of running lower pressure (or higher) and do not mind stopping for 15 minutes to plug a tube?
Tyres tend to grip longer - lower pressure grip rather than spin
Once your mousse has reached optimum pressure it possibly as good in grip (possibly better) but dead, the tyre doesn’t bounce, more like a wet sponge

hadfield4wd 11-30-2017 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swazi_matt (Post 180251)
If you like the feel and benefits of running lower pressure (or higher) and do not mind stopping for 15 minutes to plug a tube?
Tyres tend to grip longer - lower pressure grip rather than spin
Once your mousse has reached optimum pressure it possibly as good in grip (possibly better) but dead, the tyre doesn’t bounce, more like a wet sponge



I’ve heard that about the “dead feel”. I’m still working through some things on my setup. But that is part of the reason I chose the Nitro Mousse. Its supposed to help with that. Honestly I haven’t noticed yet. They are noticeably heavier too. I am waiting for a new rear tire to show up. Kenda is sending me a replacement Ibex.

I did run my tubliss at 8psi front and 6 psi rear for technical stuff.

Stamper 11-30-2017 05:11 PM

Cheers for the replies. Seems to be a lot of pros and cons for both. Unsure if stopping for 15mins during a Hare scramble to plug a tire would suit 😉. What are the life span of the mousse?

rvangeel 11-30-2017 05:22 PM

I have a question about tire punctures. If I was to run a regular heavy duty tube at the same pressure as the tubliss, would you get the same puncture? Also, If that same puncture was to occur with a mousse, would the tire and mousse run the risk of getting water inside of the tire or absorbed into the puncture of the mousse which would add a considerable amount of weight.


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(F5) 11-30-2017 06:32 PM

Gee not sure what gen I have but will always run in the rear. Often 4psi but have let down to 0psi to get out of an area with a knackered tyre, tired body and lack of skill.

swazi_matt 12-01-2017 01:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stamper (Post 180257)
Cheers for the replies. Seems to be a lot of pros and cons for both. Unsure if stopping for 15mins during a Hare scramble to plug a tire would suit 😉. What are the life span of the mousse?

the nito's apparently have a very good feel out the box (unlike other mousses that need time to get to the sweet-spot) and reports show very long lifespan with some racers here using one set for the full year rather than 2 races.

stopping to plug a hole is not always necessary, i have had some holes that could not be pluged and i rode 50km of rocky terrain with the flat tire and just tried to find the best lines possible. no damage to rim. the tubliss system works as a 360 degree rimlock so the flat tire does not come off and the inner system also works as a bumper so you are not really riding on the rim. At my last race (i was not really racing) i did the last 10km of thorny rock enduro with a flat because i was enjoying the race too much to stop. I ended up with so may plugs in the tire at the pits preparing for the next day that it looked like a rastafarian tire with dreds, i decided to stop being cheap and just fitted a new tire for the last day.

The problem with UHD tube and low pressure is that you run the chance of getting a snakebite puncture when the tube gets pinched between rim and a rock, you cannot get that with tubliss.

Basically what i tell everyone is if you cannot afford to stop to plug a tire then use a mousse, otherwise use tubliss - tubes should not be an option. You don't see anyone running tubes in their cars anymore!

hadfield4wd 12-01-2017 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvangeel (Post 180258)
I have a question about tire punctures. If I was to run a regular heavy duty tube at the same pressure as the tubliss, would you get the same puncture? Also, If that same puncture was to occur with a mousse, would the tire and mousse run the risk of getting water inside of the tire or absorbed into the puncture of the mousse which would add a considerable amount of weight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I went to tubliss because I was changing too many tubes at my trailer. So yes you’ll get a puncture especially when you drop pressure to 4-8psi.

As far as mousse and puncture. I don’t think its an issue at all. Especially since they are lubbed up good with grease. The mousse takes up all the room in the tire and its basically closed cell foam so it doesn’t soak it up. Water will barely get in if at all. My tire had a broken bead and was coming out of the rim. As I didn’t have a spare wheel etc I just rode it that way so I could keep riding. I had no issue with water getting in. And thats a bigger area than a puncture would be.

PEB 12-01-2017 10:44 AM

I have 4years and thousands of offroad miles on the tubliss setup. Many of them with a completely flat rear s12. The traction is unreal, with the completely flat tire you will eventually wear the red outer casing out and twice I have had the inner high pressure tube develop a leak where it goes around the rim lock. Both times the high pressure tube was more than a year old.

(F5) 12-01-2017 11:34 AM

All my mates run tublis and not one of us has had a puncture in the last 2 years since we became disciples to the original adoptor.

Of course now I've just jinxed it all by saying that but maybe our terrain has less snakes:rolleyes:

hadfield4wd 12-01-2017 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by (F5) (Post 180272)
Of course now I've just jinxed it all by saying that but maybe our terrain has less snakes:rolleyes:


You’re screwed now! Better brush off your plug kit.

It all depends on where I ride. I can run all year on my local stuff we hit PA for a group ride with some good friends and 4 of 12 will have a flat.

(F5) 12-01-2017 06:11 PM

Well we'll find out tomorrow. Keep the plug kit in the van so in between laps I might be doing my thang.

Stamper 12-04-2017 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by (F5) (Post 180272)
All my mates run tublis and not one of us has had a puncture in the last 2 years since we became disciples to the original adoptor.

Of course now I've just jinxed it all by saying that but maybe our terrain has less snakes:rolleyes:

Did you get to use your plug kit yesterday!!!

(F5) 12-04-2017 12:16 PM

I believe Brent did.

We're on gen2.

Man it was a hot day.

Stamper 12-11-2017 02:16 PM

Went for TUBliss, main reason is they have longer life span. Won't be pushing for podium places so pulling over for 5mins won't be much of an inconvenience. Also got a good deal on them!! Any recommendations for a SMALL plug kit that will not be too heavy and fit in a back pack. TIA

Motosportz 01-10-2018 10:11 AM

I'm running Gen2 with an IBEX at about 7 psi and freaking love that setup for NW slimy woods riding. Have had zero issues so far. Mounting the front one up tonight (was waiting for my GT216 fatty to wear out).

I got a Kenda Washougal (non sticky) for the front as I was not sure my favorite GT216 fatty would be good with tubliss (heard it is not).

Any recommendations for fronts with tubliss for slick gnar?

PEB 01-10-2018 04:34 PM

I have 14 months on the gt216 fatty on front of my bike all with tubliss. I normally run 6-8 in front and 2-4 in 505 cheater rear. I finally just ordered another front as it has shed about 1/4 of the side knobs. I got over 200 hrs out of this last fatty front. What's the supposed problem with the fatty and tubliss?

Motosportz 01-10-2018 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PEB (Post 180817)
I have 14 months on the gt216 fatty on front of my bike all with tubliss. I normally run 6-8 in front and 2-4 in 505 cheater rear. I finally just ordered another front as it has shed about 1/4 of the side knobs. I got over 200 hrs out of this last fatty front. What's the supposed problem with the fatty and tubliss?

I was told the carcass was too thin and needed the support of the tube to work well. Crap, wish I'd bought the fatty now.

PEB 01-10-2018 05:04 PM

I don't ride really fast and don't mind the tires wallowing around. I wore out my last 505 because the sidewall was tearing form the inside and the tire was walking all over. I have another fatty on order and will be replacing the old one soon. This last one worked so well I swapped it used from my gasgas to the orange bike I bought this summer, it looked fine when I swapped it. Ill let you know how it looks after I take it off.

PEB 01-10-2018 05:06 PM

Motosportz how do you like the ibex compared to a shinko 505? Sirloynz was just asking me the other day if a I knew anyone that had run them both.

Motosportz 01-11-2018 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PEB (Post 180821)
Motosportz how do you like the ibex compared to a shinko 505? Sirloynz was just asking me the other day if a I knew anyone that had run them both.

I have not run the 505. I have run the GT523 which is my hands down favorite tire for NW slick but they discontinued that one. The GT333 is very good but not as good as the 523 for me. The IBEX withthe tubliss at 7 PSI is about as good as the GT523 for me. Really liking that setup.

I dont like Shinko tires, had so many people tell me this model or that model is good and I tried them and never found ones I have liked. I have not tried the 505 cheater. The always seemed to be OK when new, tapered off very quickly and then started to fail and spit knobs way to early.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PEB (Post 180821)
Sirloynz

Been way to long since I have seen that guy.

Who are you?

Skyrooster 10-16-2018 07:56 PM

In general you gain a little and lose a little with tubliss. Meaning if you run low pressure you gain traction but lose side knobs and trash the sidewalls. The fix for me was to use firm sidewall desert tires and stay away from light weight MX tires. When faster guys run soft mx tires they have to run more air pressure to not lose side knobs so they end up with less gain then the slow guy who can run 5 psi and not ruin the tire. The fastest guys I know run bibs or HD tubes with standard pressures. I'm slow and love the low pressure with tubliss and a hard desert tire combo. I've staub flat many times but every one of those would have been a flat with a tube. The traction to play on an enduro like a trials bike is the best part of having tubliss. Tubliss also protects your rim from rock dents because of the 360 degree rim lock effect. If you go with Tubliss as a traction device you won't be disappointed. If you don't mind the extra weight and want stone reliability go with the bib.

mrquick 10-24-2018 03:08 PM

Tubliss
 
Hi all, I have run Tubliss for 4 yrs now and no trouble at all, I got one puncture and ran 5 hrs without a problem, with no air in the tyre got to our destination plugged it the tyre was still perfect...
I did 230hrs on my last bike with gen2 s in not one issue dead easy to changes tyres once you get to know the system, but you do afto keep topping up the high pressure side every 2 weeks or s, as said it drops slowly.
Me and my riding buddy rode this years Welsh 2 day and believe me it was a war of attrition with the heat and dust, well my mate was running BIBs and on day 2 the rear mouse started to disintegrate and it slowly started pushing the tyre off thank god he had 2 x rim locks in otherwise it would have been a DNF, my Tubliss was just flawless so I am sticking with what works for me (each to his own I suppose), I took delivery of a brand new ec300 last Friday and tonights job was putting the tubliss in, front and rear installed in about 1.5 hrs...


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