New RK Oring chain. I an running a 13/51 Renthal sprocket set and I ordered a 120 link chain. I used a chain breaker to remove about 3 links and I used a chain press to install the new master link. The TM designworks chain guide is wide enough for the oring chain but the stock chain guide is too narrow.
http://i.imgur.com/fGF71q3l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Bh5jz5fl.jpg

I have a case saver ordered, it should be here on Wednesday. MSR folding shifter fit perfectly. Those are titanium footpegs from a YZF.

http://i.imgur.com/bzQDIbBl.jpg

I used Oetikier clamps on the cooling hoses, they were very easy to install. I installed the power valve cover with a new oem Honda gasket and some cad bolts, then torqued to spec.

http://i.imgur.com/1GfDeITl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/keo0hKSl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pASRIT1l.jpg

Through the build I used a vet syringe with a brake line fitting to apply Redline assembly lube to each bolt, nut or landing to ensure my torque specs were accurate. The syringe makes application a breeze, keeps things tidy and avoids wasting the assembly lube. I think I could assembly three bikes with one bottle of lube using this method. The lube makes everything go much faster during assembly.

http://i.imgur.com/eRcFxiHl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0VudgBxl.jpg

I installed a new Honda pipe mount with two cad bolts and a Honda spring washer to secure the pipe.

http://i.imgur.com/xOutKWBl.jpg

I filled the engine with synthetic transmission fluid and filled the radiators with coolant. I did a preliminary adjustment of the Recluse Auto Clutch with the Torque Drive Plate System. I still need to install the carb and pipe and tie up come loose ends, then we can begin the setup. And here is where I am so far.

http://i.imgur.com/I3E72hKl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lMUIhg8l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/cB6R0hgl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bvRbJkPl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8kNtjRml.jpg

Looking very nice!!

A good friend of mine uses a small block chevy valve spring on the clevis (between the clevis and the master cylinder) as a return spring. Maybe find a small diameter and firm compression spring to wind around the clevis bolt?

Hey, I never thought about that, it's a great idea! Thanks very much!:D

Does anyone know if a a CCK needle and an R1369N needle are the same?

A CCK is a lot leaner from what Jets R US has posted. Its close to a CGK. Page down in the link.

https://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carbur...n_N427-48.html

Try this out as well....

http://www.kyajet.de/?lang=en

Fasst company makes a nice brake return spring! It mounts on the master.

I made a mistake I meant CGK. So, is the CGK the same needle as an R1369N?

Thanks for the post! I just spoke to Jason at Fasst company, I have to call him tomorrow with some measurements and he is going to hook me up with the return spring and the aluminum retainer.

Here is the link.
https://www.fasstco.com/collections/...-return-spring

It said it was similar.

I like the location of that spring and the style of it.

Yea, It looks very cool.

92-2001 CR250 Power Valve Air Leak Fix
 

The 92-2001 Cr250 power valve linkage system is very different form the GasGas system. I think the GasGas system is a simpler more effective design. The last time that I did the top end on my gasser I did a leak test as well. The gasser did not drop psi hardly at all over 25 plus minutes. The Hondas are prone to airleaks at the powervalve shaft because there are only metal shafts and metal bushings and no rubber seals at all. The standard for Hondas is if the engine only drops 1 psi in 6 minutes it is deemed good to go. I didn't feel comfortable with that at all.

I just tried this fix that I found on another forum by member T-Roy. I just finished my 94 CR 250 and I applied moly to the exhaust valve shafts and I packed the case cavities and installed new shaft bushings as well.

I checked my tool for leaks before the test. I performed a leak down test and I had leak. I applied soapy water to the head gasket, base gasket, intake gasket, power valve gasket, left and right main seal seals and both mechanical plugs that I used to seal the exhaust and intake. Not a single bubble, everything was torqued to spec and tight as a drum.

I then removed the main clutch cover and applied some soapy water to the lower power valve shaft in the crankcase. Bang! That was the leak. The soap bubble was about as big as a nickel then it would expand to the size of a quarter. I could pop the bubble and another one would form immediately.

Ok, here is the fix per T-Roy that does NOT require you to remove the cylinder. Remove the power valve cover, remove the spring clip(the one that goes through the hole in the top of the shaft.), remove the drive pinion(arm at top of vertical shaft), remove the spring, the bushing and the linkage.

Install a 6.8 mm oring.(Harbour Freight Kit see below for details.)Then slide the oring to the bottom of the shaft, reinstall the bushing, spring, drive pinion and spring clip. You may need to lift the top of the shaft with some needle nose pliers to get the spring clip to slide through the hole in the shaft. Push down a little on the pinion to press the whole assembly and put a slight pressure on the oring. Readjust your powervalve including .5mm preload on the spring per Dogger. UPDATE: I haven't had any problem but I going a add a Viton (High Heat Resistence 400F) Oring and I will post an update later. Available at Carr-McMaster and EBay.

I put some extra moly into the oring and the bottom of the bushing. Here is what it looks like before reinstalling the pv parts. Per Dogger these engines should only drop 1 psi in 6 minutes. I retested mine after installing the oring. My engine only dropped 1 psi in 24 minutes!

http://i.imgur.com/k0IWisYl.jpg

Glad to hear you got the PV leak fixed. So when are we going to see some smoke out of that baby?? lol

I was going to post here the other day. Was researching leak down testers etc and stumbled across the same info and thought of this thread! Glad you found and implemented it!

Yes, it was a good fix.

Finished the Bike Today!
 

I finished the bike today and she is a beast.

http://i.imgur.com/glCCMyJl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xYskg6Kl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ByClBACl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DoGWFUBl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DF0d3r8l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oJEYZLtl.jpg

I will post updates when I get some seat time.:D:D:D:D

Congrats on getting it finished. :D I am sure you will have to do some carb tweaking and suspension clicker adjustments but I hope its close for you.

Thanks, I hope so too.

There is no powervalve leak of any consequence in 92-96 .CR 250 s

While the engine is running 1 psi drop in 6 minutes is nothing.The engine is running at 1000 s of rotations per minute.

Also the engine tolerances will tighten up once the bike gets up to temperature.

The main consideration is for the valve assembly to be free of stiction.
Rubber o-rings, seals-goop whatever=drag.

Thanks for the post and update! Btw, the bike runs good but it is a very rich on the bottom with the airscrew at 2.5 turns out, I am going to try a 48 pilot. Right now I have a 175 main,52 pilot, R1369N needle, boyesen rad valve and FMF Gnarley,FMF spark arrestor/silencer. Does this sound like I am in the right ballpark?

Original Startup
 

It took me a while to get caught up on some other things. Here is a video of the original start up after the build in September 2017. I have put about 20 hrs on her now without any problems. She is very SMOOTH and very FAST. She is probably the fastest 250 that I have ever rode. In straight line acceleration she is about as fast with a little less torque as my 2011 GasGas 300.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-pkG5liJ_8

Tried to watch the video. Broken link?

I will check the link.