Front brake dragging or bearings or both?
 

My front end has handled poorly since I got the bike. Not stable under braking or entering a rut, and also wants to over steer in corners. I've been clicking away making suspension adjustments, sliding forks all the way down, playing with sag, and while making improvements, it still feels strange and unruly. Kind of felt like there was some drag coming front the front wheel. I'm looking at three areas that don't feel right to me.

1. My front brake feels strange at the lever. The lever, when pulled in doesn't feel smooth, feels sort of sticky. If pulled 3 or 4 times repeatedly, it actually vibrates and makes a binding noise. The pull seems short too. It was squealing yesterday in the OKC National Enduro. I've never had that happen before. Consequently, I've never had to rebuild a front brake master cylinder before, I'm thinking that is one of the culprits.

2. Also, I'm noticing I can give the front wheel a good spin on the stand, but it only goes around 2 1/2 times before stopping. My WR right next to it spins around like 10-12 times before stopping, then it will rock back and for before settling at a stop. The 300 isn't free like that at all. The side to side play is good, with no play or slop at all. I cleaned up the axle and lightly greased it before installation. It also isn't binding at the axle clamps either, I checked that. It also sounds quiet, no grinding or crunching noise when spinning. Doesn't seem like but could the bearings be going bad?

3. Also noticed that the PO left the stock chain on after going to a 50t rear sprocket. The rear axle is so far forward, the tire is hitting the mud flap wearing holes through it. I imagine getting that axle back with a 114 link chain would help the front end weirdness as well.

2012 R model. 48mm CC Zokes. Have they been serviced? Multiple reports of the inner chamber not being bled correctly and clunking on full extension. If they haven't been serviced, plan on it.

Sounds like the brake caliper could use some love too. Either just a pull down and clean up, or maybe a full rebuild.

The front wheel sounds like a combination of the front brake dragging and possibly some stiction of the seals. Removing the front brake caliper should let you know more quickly for your 'spin test'.

Has the bike been resprung? Hows the sag figures? Are the forks through the triples some or flush with caps?

Yeah, forks and shock just got rebuilt. .48 front and 6.2 rear and PFP full out. I'm 235 with no gear. Fast B/Slow A rider. I haven't noticed any clunking. Forks are at the upper limit in clamps. Sag is at 35mm static. I haven't been around a few people to help with the race sag. Been solo lately. Maybe it's time to train the wife and 6 year old boy on setting sag. I've been adjusting it from 30mm static to 39mm static. Feels best at 35mm. I guessing it will be around 105mm. We shall see tomorrow.

Removing the caliper and spinning was great advice. I just removed it and the wheel spins freely now like it should. Looks like a caliper/MC rebuild.

I'm excited bc I think now my handling issues will be solved. I was starting to get annoyed with this thing.

Sometimes just pulling the brake pads and cleaning up the pins and pistons will make a big difference. Probably worth a try before you go the whole hog.

The rest sounds like its on the right page.

Going with new pads and pin. How do I get the pistons out? It has been a while and I have no manual.

*shrugs*

I've never had to rebuild a caliper either. While we're on it.. Where can I buy service kits? The guide pins (for the caliper, not the pads) are getting a bit slop on mine. I've replaced the pad pins once. Too much riding is wearing my bike out! :o

Use compressed air, put the nozzel where the breakhose would be. Watch your fingers!:)

I have bought rebuild kits on Ebay. Here in the US. I like to buy a lot of OEM parts from ServiceHonda.com. They stock most OEM (Japan Bikes) parts. The front and rear caliper are the same as what is on a YZ250/450 bike, just can't remember what years.

As for brake pins I would recommend finding the Stainless steel aftermarket ones as they don't rust or wear as fast. If I recall Zeta Racing makes them and so does Moose Racing. Plus the aftermarket ones eliminate that stupid little cap/cover and are a bolt head instead of the allen head type pin.

Just like Wimpy said.
But I would recommend you put a thick (say 1/4") wood shim in between where the pistons come out and what holds the opposing brake pads in. This way when the compressed air POPS (you may jump when this happens) the piston out it does not go flying across the floor and also with the wood shim the pistons will not get damaged and prevent you from spending more $$$ to rebuild your caliper.

I will use the WR manual. I'll bet it is very close to being the same. Yamaha puts out a very good owner's manual.

I'm running short on time this week, I may have someone do it if it doesn't cost a bunch. I really need to ride this weekend. Preferrably on this 300 w/o a dragging front wheel.