2018 EC250 Build up
 

Well ladies and gentlemen.. I have succumb to the pressures of the new bikes. I went and saw the local dealer the other day to pass some time and was advised that one of the bikes was apparently mine. He dropped it off the following afternoon!!

So with this new machine, I have a couple new things to learn, and many things to setup.

She hasn't even been started yet, so I'll likely pull it all down and give it a solid PD before we go anywhere.

Rethal twin walls will be getting carried over from the old one.
Quick pull throttle will too! and the P3 pipe guard.

In relation to the PV, are the adjustments from fully seated? IE less preload on the spring makes the PV open easier resulting in more aggressive delivery? Makes sense to me.

What are the thoughts on the starter motor? Have read that the heavier guage earth leads are an investment, however anyone doing wet mods? I don't need a button.

Wiring harness wise I'll be stripping her back to minimal. No indicators needed, same for front brake switch. I'm not sure if I need to keep the OEM switch block either. Might just put a kill switch and the starter. I presume the same old same old with the nissin master that you get better feel without it.

I'll give the 13-49 gearing a go, but will have the old 50T supersprox stealth on hand (also taken from the old girl).

Stock rubber is going on the shelf, and I'll doll her in dunnies.

Suspension wise, dumping the middle bolt on the triple clamps. Has anyone felt the need to upgrade springs? Stock 4.2nm (approx .43kg/mm) seems a bit on the light side. I am currently using .45kg/mm on my 13 model with KYB SSS. Rear 53nm (5.3kg/mm) shock sounds about right though. I was going to start the forks at 13 clicks out on each and go from there.


What else do I need to know?

Radiator braces and bash plates, recommendations please!
What's the g.o. with the blow by plumbing (runs from airbox and pv vent back into the intake boot). Are people keeping this? Do the XC have a different airboot or just blanked off?

Squish will be measured up and probably factor in a head job up front! Jetting will be something like 42 NEDW#2 175.


Looks like a nice bit of kit. Won't look this nice for long.

Ooooh yeah! Will the old silencer bolt straight on? Or do I need to pull the old saw out and cut the new one down straight up too?

Power valve is from full closed. Most folks settle around 2 turns out.

50t sprocket won’t fit with stock chain.

I’m a faster Vet B rider and run the forks 2 clicks from full soft on compression and 9 clicks out on rebound

Try the light fork springs first. I’m pretty heavy at 260lbs (118kg) and only running .54 springs up front and a 6.8 on the rear.

Don’t think the old silencer will fit. Have tried though.

Squish seems to be pretty consistent on the new bikes. Most are reporting in the neighborhood of 1.6mm. I’m running an RK Tek head with a squish of 1.1mm

Jetting carries over pretty well from the older generation. I settled on an N3CH needle, 42p, slightly cut stock slide, 185 main. Running 110 octane at 50:1

Starter motor and bendix are flawless. Change all the cables to 8 gauge wire, including the positive cable from the battery to the relay. Here in the states the ECU was an issue as well. After the re-flash, I havent had the first issue.

Epoxy the Kickstand foot or it will fall out.

Consider upgrading the air box fasteners with KTM ones. The stockers are a little loose.


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Also,

I’m running the SXS skid plate. Very nice piece but not sure if you have access to them down there. AXP makes a nice one too.

I went with Enduro Engineering braces and the stock plastic louvers. They are very thick and don’t plug up with mud like a full on radiator guard.

The mounting tabs for the chain guide block are pretty weak and bend easily. Consider the Bulletproof Designs swingarm guard to prevent the tabs from breaking off


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Never had anything new before. I guess the procedure is to push it down a steep bank cartwheeling into a creek. Might as well get it over with without you on board. :cool:

I think we need pics (before the aforementioned running in procedure).

Lucky sod.

I'll try get a few pics of her.. She's just another stock bike though!

Thanks for the words re the swingarm. I'll look into it.

I'll try the stock springs, but if I need a bit more up front I think I have a spare .46kg/mm in the shed, so easy to bump it up a touch.

Anyone after some old stock, I'll be having a clearance sale. Have all sorts of crap for the 2010-17 models. Probably my S3 ported and machined head and cylinder (250cc). An S3 head and 300cc inserts (unless if I put them on the bike to sell). TTX shock for 2010-11 model, TTX inserts for Sachs 48mm legs, full KYB fork, Yamaha axle, spacers and caliper carrier.. Among other bits and pieces!

Definitely check spokes, mine were finger tight on back wheel after first ride. Check out your dealer or heavier battery and solenoid cables, I got these for free from mine here in WA While your at it with the switches add an of switch for the lights so the battery can get a better charge up. I'd be interested to know how you go if you cut down the standard muffler, it's a bit of a spooge tube. Got a TSP head on it last week and and spooge seems to have improved though along with bottom end delivery. For Springs I put a single 0.46 spring in forks and a 5.5 shock spring for my 92kg race weight. I might drop the oil level a little next time it's due for an oil change. This is for a GP300. Enjoy the new ride!!

Congratulations on the purchase. Get a set of plastics without decals and swap that on straght away. Keep the shiney stuff for when you resell it.

Congrats!:D:D:D:D

Hmmmm ... might be interested in some of that bling, especially now that I’m a bit closer to you.

Congrats on the new bike you jammy bugger

My 2013 spooged like a trooper until I cut her back too. If I'm really lucky I might be able to bolt it straight onto the new one, but don't like my odds.

I'm probably similar weight when I'm fully geared up. Come in around 75kgs in my jocks, give or take a few.

Will have a look at the axle offset on the GG fork lugs and compare to the Yamaha ones on my old girl. Might even just bolt the old forks straight up and do some back to back testing between my revalved set and the stock Gassers.

I've found getting the head cut is the best bang for buck you get on these engines. Makes everything else fall into place.

No worries Matt, let me know if you do. I'm sure I have lots of other bits and pieces as well. I have a whole new linkage and dogbone for the 13 model too, and a rubber airboot for the 10-11 models. How did I end up with all this stuff? Billet Smart carb anyone?

Hey. I've sent you a pm 'elsewhere' too!
Will be keen on some of the parts
Jonathan

Ive just purchased an 18 250GP, using the AXP radiator braces and P-Tech pipe guard. Both fit really well and are good value for money. Stock suspension is far better than any bike I have had before, so far only needed to go two clicks softer on fork compression. I ride tech single trails and rocky terrain here in Victoria.

I think I'll put my hand in my pocket and get P-Tech rad frames (or wait for force to put their model out). I've had rocks, sticks, logs etc smack my previous ones hard enough front on to bend the guards a bit. I'd rather have some metal than just plastic infront of em.

P3 off the old bike fits up.

I think those BPD Swingarm supports look like a good idea too!

TSP Headwork

And that is where I'll call it I think. I really would rather have a couple extra teeth on the rear sprocket, but don't want to cough up for sprockets and chains right up. Although.. I may drop a 48T back on another bike and keep my 50T supersprox for when I decide I need it.

Got my AXP rad braces & bashy with link guard last night. Good prices & seem solid!

Just ride it already. You are killing us, man.

Report back after the ride.

Me??

Believe it or not.. All I have done is remove the front fender and headlight.. I haven't even put them back on yet...

Suspense.. It's got me wondering too!

You're worse than me. Captain blase'

Alrighteo chaps!

I've finally finished playing around with old bikes, and onto this new one.

Haven't done much but started undressing her, and finding a couple little gg specials along the way.

Centre tank bolt was a bit managed on the last couple threads. Not sure if someone has bottomed it out or not. Can run a longer bolt in a fair way before it stops, so might just run a tap through it for piece of mind. Always prefer a longer bolt for the tank too.

Wiring harness all coming apart and getting packed with some dielectric grease. Horn, and indicators getting removed and just running headlight and tail light. Will be replacing the front brake switch for a banjo bolt as well.

Need to get the flywheel cover off (inc starter motor). Open to suggestions on what the best approach is here. Lubrication wise? Wet bath? What kind of oil? Just a light grease on the gears? Part of me thinks I should just take it off.

Has anyone replaced the OEM switch block with something simpler? All I need is headlight on/off pretty much, and a GO button if I keep the e-start.

Rear rubber will be switched out to Dunlop, blah blah blah.

Has anyone noticed the 2 small bolts in the side of the left hand case where the reed block fits? These weren't on my earlier bikes. Anyone know what they are for? Is it part of the mounting of the Vforce4 block? or something else. Also have some pretty average machining on the top edge of the reed block/cases. Some bikes have this, others not. Perhaps an average batch of cases with some extra casting that has been taken off.

Coolant will be binned and replaced with something else, and squish getting measured up and head off to TSP for some work.

I need to source a new NEDW, have duplicates of heaps of other needles but the only NEDW I have is in my 2013, and I think I'll leave it there.. Could swap it out, but it has a heap of hours on it so a new one wouldn't be a bad thing anyway.

I'm liking the looks of the P-tech rad braces. May try and source a set. Have used force previously but their customer service has been average so happy to shop around.

I might try snap a couple pictures to add.

Ooo.. Pulled the OEM kick starter off to add a YZ one and noticed they have been super generous with the Loctite on there!

I just had the same experience with the bolts on my rads. The mounts must be pre-threaded before they get welded to the frame. I just ran a tap through them and they were fine. Just installed BPD rad braces, shock pivot guard and chain slider mount guard. Other than the bolt threads, this bike is way easier to work on than anything else I have owned. The electrical is pretty tidy too.

For the starter just pull the small bendix cover and lube the bendix with a light coat of grease. There is ZERO issue with the inner mechanical workings of the e-start system. The issue all along has been small cables and a bad CDI map. Leave the starter on and enjoy it.


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Curious what settings you settled on with the NEDW? I never could get it to work, was always rich on bottom and lean on top


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I've pulled the whole starter so I can turn the flywheel over to take the squish sample. I haven't started the bike yet so can't comment on where I'll end up jetting wise. It could be a case that the NEDW doesn't work well with this engine. It has run flawlessly in my previous donk for 200hrs with a nice linear pull from top to bottom (40 NEDW#2 175).

Changes in the port layout and ignition could throw all that out the window though, as my 2010 didn't gel with the NE needles and always ran better with N3CW#3.

Seal up the starter cover, add a breather tube and run some 2.5w or 5w fork oil. The action of the bendix is so much quicker and the lube actually gets flung around on the gears etc rather than just stuck to the wall of the cover like grease. I like the NEDW in my 300. I think it?ll work well in yours too. I think it is just a euro thing that at least one bolt is galled up or cross threaded...

Did you drill and tap a breather into the cover?

I think it wouldn't be a GG if it didn't have at least a few quirks.

The tank is full of plastic shards left over from manufacture. Also some green oil, almost like they had a little fuel in the tank at some stage and drained it.

I may have a slow weep from the sump plug. Not a hard fix. Found some oil along the frame rail and bash plate. Have cleaned and left the bike propped up on a piece of cardboard overnight.

Going to measure the squish tomorrow. Everything ready to go, just need to pull the head and throw some solder in there.

Need to start ordering parts soon!!!

Yeah I drilled and tapped a 5mm vacuum fitting in there. I have got pics on here of it somewhere. That mod and the leads has mine starting all the time on the stock battery. Yep very true! Cannot wait to hear your first ride report!

Did you see my post on the 2015 revised starter thread? Not sure if still the same but the small cover the 6mm steel shaft runs dry in plain ally (!@#!!) while Mrs small gear tries to get away from Mr big gear machining a groove as she goes.

I've just inserted a bush (small hole see pic) there but will try the oil bath method. Wasn't going to use a breather but maybe not a bad idea. Mate's bike so he's the guinea pig. I'll just keep with me old kicker pretending not to be jealous.

I like my old kick booter lever! Although I think I've half worn the teeth off the shaft of my 2013. Bit of slop in errr.

The ktm starters always used a small plastic bush. They'd wear out quickly but were easy enough to change.

I can have a look at mine and see if they've updated the design; I doubt they have though.

Took a couple squish measurements today.. Coming in around 1.55-1.6mm at the edge, which isn't what I was expecting and almost alright. Leads me to the next question though.. I wonder where the comp ratio is at. Looks like I'll be cc'ing the head and crunching some numbers.

Bet you still need to adjust the angle to piston. My 300 is just under 1mm currently. But with a heap out of the chamber obviously.

Without a doubt F5. I'll just send it along with a few squish samples to someone who knows what they're doing :D

That is half the reason I wet modded mine. I seen a 2015 a while back that was looking a bit average there. And about a million worn out ktm ones.

Tis the reason I'm considering putting it all in a box and a nice plastic cover over the flywheel. Surely I've gone mad!

You won't! Getting too old to kickstart unnecessarily mate ;)

Head going into the mailbox today!

P-Tech radiator braces ordered!

Rear wheel isn't very well aligned in the swingarm, but it'll be coming off for some rubber of choice at some stage anyway.

Got the Renthal twinwalls off the old girl cleaned up and into the new one. Next stop will be along the lines of pulling the carb, chasing an NEDW needle down, fitting motion pro throttle cable and getting rid of that pull choke.

Ptech braces fit really well! Happy as a pig in it..

Have opted to pull the chain and rear sprocket straight up. Have a low hour used DID VX2 and Supersprox stealth 50T that I'll throw on.

Still waiting for the head to come back, and tossing up OEM bashy vs AXP Extreme.

Seeing what I can get a BPD swingarm guard for in Australia. Distributer is after $140+ postage selling to the public. I might be able to improve on this, otherwise I'll be taking my chances.

Have any of you people checked the PV linkage tension on the new bikes?

Mine was pretty loose..

Ahh man! I didn't really want to have to go dropping the side cover off just yet!

Next question, appears the RHS pv cover is using a thicker gasket than I am used to. Is it required for clearance issues? I think I have a couple normal ones here still.

Yep you are all over it. The right hand side assembly is different to earlier ones. Be reall careful taking it of, mine was stuck down tight on one side. Depends too on where you run the adjustment screw as well. Mine is out pretty far, about three turns.