Hey guys, back from the hospital and encouraged - it seems like my little girl has chosen to fight for it and she looks to be making measurable gains. Keep praying though, we're not out of the woods yet. Wait, I should use a different analogy, because after this week I can't wait to get back in the woods.

As to the axle, yes the YZ would be aesthetically preferred, but the way I measured it in order to have adequate clearance inside the brake side lug I needed to use the WR axle. The brake side lug isn't bored straight through, and you can run into an issue with the shoulder just beyond the axle threads bottoming out on the fork lug. This would be an issue in that the hub could essentially float laterally instead of being trapped as it should be on the axle.

The thought crossed my mind to attempt to machine the axle, but then the litigation side of my brain took over. Look inside an axle and you'll see a bunch of steps and I wasn't confident in the integrity of the part if I machined it down just aft of the threads. Lopping off the other side would have eliminated the internal hex - certainly an opportunity if you wanted to take it, but lately I've been mulling over threading in the axle from the right leg (non-brake side) as a means to to improve alignment. If the CRF axle works and looks better, by all means ;)

The spacers themselves were hand-spun and then hard-coated (not really a coating, but actually an oxidation process) to levels that the US military finds acceptable. Hopefully they are tough enough for GasGas use :D

Let me know how they work out.

Nah, just my OCD Matt.

I agree no to 1mm float on the side opposite the brake. I have measured everything up and it sits true though with no binding or alignment issues.

Steve, you may be able to help out here. Above you spoke of the brake side bottoming in the lug. Basically we have to do this to ensure the clearance on the opposite side due to the way the spacer sits in the lug. Do you recommend leaving more of the shoulder (larger OD part) out on that side, and then following normal procedure to do up the pinch bolts and then torque the nut, or were you just torquing the axle nut against the axle as it bottoms in the brake side lug, leaving minimal hanging out the other side?

I got mine fitted up today on the 2013 chasis. I still get some ocassional minor contact of the shroud against the wear ring on the brake side. I'll probably look at putting a big zip tie on as a safety buffer. Granted my forks were brand new they had a bucket load of stiction still, but after 10min they felt like they were freeing up.

Initial run was comp 12, rebound 10, fork flush with the upper triple. Felt like it sat up too high and a bit alien. I always ran around 9mm through the triples with the Sachs/Marzocchis. I came out to 15 on the comp and its nice and supple, yet firms up well. Off drops its quite smooth and controlled and I still haven't bottomed it even with 310ml of oil so looks promising.

Quick pitstop and pushed the forks through 5mm and back out. It felt much more like I'm used to. Then called it quits. Brought rebound out to 12 for next ride as I think it could sit up some more down through rooted declines, amd to balance the front to rear on vertical step-up/lips/ledges.

All in all, very pleased with how they ride, but I'm yet to get out of 2nd gear so real testing to come.

thinking about it now. The forks will be automatically aligned (with faith in Steves measurements) because they but up against the spacers so they can only float away from the spacer. Make sense?

nice news for a friday Steve!!

When you put the assembly together and tighten the nut you're basically sandwiching everything together from the shoulder on the axle on the non-disk side in this order - right side spacer, bearing, crush tube, left side bearing, left side spacer, left side fork lug. If the shoulder on the axle on the left hand side (just down stream of the threads) were to contact the inside of the left hand fork lug you'd have lateral slop in the system and your bearings wouldn't be preloaded.

Set up correctly the rotor should be centered in the gap of the fixed caliper hanger.

Roger that. So its important to not simply push the axle in as far as it will go or this could happen.

End of the day though, no slop is all good.

When are you going for a ride Matt? Looking forward to how the -3mm offset feels on the 2010 chasis. Its noticable on the 2013, but in a good way I think. The front feels heavier and more planted, dare I say more on rails than it was before. Once its tipped in it feels quite sharp and precise. I'm hoping this doesn't translate into requiring too much input once the pace comes up.

Ok my riding buddy ditched me at the last minute so I went out on my own and did about 30km. Didn't push it as I was on my own but this setup is so much better than the Sachs.
I could not notice any negative changes to handling (re offset etc). Bike went where it was supposed to and didn't deflect. I did realize that I have been using the Sachs dive to assist cornering - hit the brakes, bike dives and turns tighter (possible? Or is there a change with the kyb?)

Forks are not diving like the Sachs going down steep rock steps and just float over the rock gardens and I now understand the term feedback - I know what is ha76023051ppening on the ground but it is not turned into harshness on my hand
Forks are a big improvement on our grass climbs (the tufts seem to grow into ridges about 10cm high and about 20-30 cm apart) but still struggling a bit bouncing around there.
And I noticed that I still have about 90mm of unused fork travel at the end of the ride

My biggest task now is to get the rear to work as well as the front

I did wind it along the forest track on the way home and I did not feel scared like I did on the sachs
It was too hot to do any testing with clickers and I was also enjoying the ride

Funny! Your feedback matches mine to a tee.

What rate springs do you have up front? I have found these are a bit firmer than my TTX carts, and Marzocchis. But they do have .46kg/mm springs and 22Nm ICS springs. I'm used to the feedback and would say even on first revalve they're as good as anything else I've ridden. I have a few issues with the front wanting to climb out of rocky downhill ruts, but everywhere else was pretty good. As you have said, its highlighted what could be improved at the back end.

PS. I did 90+ km of mixed terrain. Was stinking hot and humid though so hard to tell what was poor fitness and technique on my part and what the fork could have done better. Nothing scary though, no spikes, and no deflection, at any pace from 1st gear to 6th.

finally got mine all fitted up using yam triples and forks from a 07 YZF 250. everything looks to line up well.
fork feel REALLY stiff and have heaps of sticktion.... going to give it a test ride first to see how the steering feels, then look into springs and valving....
Jake if you have any good starting points it would be good.... forks are stock as but used.
anyone got any good leads on a cart/fork cap tool.?

Happy to share some stacks with you Tyson. I don't know exactly what they ran in the 07 model, but in mine I removed a solid 9 face shims and introduced a crossover after the first 9 remaining (from 24). Both aimed at softening the low speed compression. Spring rates will play into it, but shouldn't be too far off. I also softened the mid comp a touch, but closed the float for more ramp up and control on the sharp high speed hits.

Cart and fork cap tools available everywhere for various prices. With aussie dollar where it is it's likely to cheapest to just jump on ebay and find something. I've got a race tech one and a DRC. http://www.onlineracingspares.com.au...uspension/2404