TuBliss users...New install tips to know!!
 

Jeff Douglas from Nutech (TuBliss system developer) has passed along these new install tips for the system which will help prevent some potential issues. Thought I would pass them along to those using the system.

http://www.nuetech.com/

As an FYI.....This guy offers just outstanding customer service/support (besides a really cool product) and has gone out of his way every time I've had a question or needed something. He's right at the top of the list along with Kelly from Motosportz (steering dampers) and the guy from G2 throttle cam system for top customer support in my book.


Anyway, here are the new install tips he sent me.

FYI, we are currently updating the instructions, with TWO major points (just thought I would share this as it might be helpful!).



1. When installing the red liner onto the rim. It is best to start pulling it onto the rim at the rim lock, working your way around to finish back at the rim lock. About 1/2 way around it starts to get tight & at this point is where you can pinch it together and work it into the drop center of the rim to create a LOT more slack so it will go on the rest of the way with minimal effort. Do NOT finish opposite of the rim lock as this will damage the casing every time.



2. We have also changed the RIM LOCK tightening sequence. It REALLY helps to only finger tighten the nut so just a thread or two are showing above it - THEN inflate the inner liner and tire and LASTLY torque the rim lock to 11 ft. lbs. This EXPECIALLY help with the fronts sealing on the first try.



Hope this helps and PLEASE let us know if any questions or if you have ANY other feedback.

Whats wrong with heavy duty tubes?

Heavy duty tubes don't allow you to run 5psi in your tires. Running the Tubliss system is like cheating. Even crappy tires work pretty well with this system. Good tires are fantastic. It allows a knobbly tire to act like a trials tire in many many situations.

Is the tubeless system that reliable that you can run that low?

YES!!!, it is

You can run zero pressure with no problems if you use slime in your tire. A lot of people think the slime would be a big mess but probably it won't be. I have yet to change tires since mounting the Tubliss but here is why I think the slime mess will be minimal - the slime is in the tire not the Tubliss system. What little slime is on the Tubliss after removing the tire should be easy to wipe off (the Tubliss is not removed for tire changes).

How long before they wear out? I'll just throw out random numbers but say you road 60 miles a weekend every weekend for a year. Think it would last that long?

How do you all keep your wheels round with that low of pressure? Seems I have enough problems bending rims at 11 to 12 psi.

Roscoe

in theory the tubliss will last forever. it takes no real wear. the small inner tube in the tubliss system could feasibly be punctured by a spoke. but (i think) tubliss sells replacement innertubes (i got one as a spare for free...) and the inner tube can be patched with a regular patch kit if you would ever need to.

the only time the tubliss gets wear is when you install it.

you don't need to take it out when you change tires. it stays on. it actually makes tire swaps easier. no tube to mess with.

is it worth $180 for 2 tubliss? i dunno. you could run a whole year without replacing a $20 tube. but you can't run low pressure with a tube, so it's totally worth it to me....

if you're doing any amount of serious dirt, it's a great investment. i see no reason to ever buy a tube again for a dirt bike..

i run 5-7 psi tubliss front and rear. it's extremely rocky here. yes, my rims get all black from the tire rubber. but no dings.

here's my theory on it.
on a regular tube, the tire is only held on the bead by 10-12 psi. so when you take a hit at 10 psi, the tire unbeads (kinda) and 'gives' (temporarily) and the rim takes the hit.

the tubliss holds the bead at 100psi. this pressure holds the bead much tighter than the tube at 10psi can. the rubber takes the hit.