How to check the wear of clutch discs.
 

I'm programming the exchange piston my GasGas EC 250 2008 for next days and would like to take to perform a check on the clutch discs, which are still the original and the principle are working perfectly, because I do not see any strange symptom, my clutch does not slip, do not give leaps, no drag and can not turn my bike quietly even with a gear engaged.

Checking the service history, there is wear maximum limit measures for friction discs and warping to the steel disks. This is how you analyze the need for a possible replacement?

Another question, what better brand to be used for a possible replacement?

I checked here on the site the ability to use the Honda CR friction discs 250 and Barnett of the site have the option of Kevlar discs and Carbon.

Description for Carbon discs:

Carbon Fiber segmented friction plates are extremely durable and heat tolerant.
? The high static and dynamic coefficient of friction Provides a smooth positive engagement and release.
? Will not contaminate the oil.
? Compatible with stock steel drive plates, springs and all oils.
? If you are extremely hard on your clutch, These are the plates for you.

Description for Kevlar discs:

The Kevlar? performs flawlessly under severe conditions and delivers smooth, precise shifting
? Kevlar? friction materials is bonded to 6061-T6 alloy CNC machined colors or tempered steel colors depending on the application
? Compatible with stock steel drive plates, springs and all oils

I'm not a pilot who abuses clutch, want to keep the softness and progressiveness copies of the OEM clutch.

Thank you.

Clutches can last a well long time if you don't hammer them. If it isn't dragging and isn't slipping I'd leave it well alone, just keep feeding it whatever oil you're currently using regularly.

Thank you for your help. Actually, my clutch works superbly, always used Motul TransOil 10W40.

But out of curiosity, the way to verify the disks is as described in the manual? Checking wear with the caliper?

Any idea what material supplied by Barnett is the most appropriate?

Run it! I still have the original clutch in my 2000 XC300 with a big bore kit and I am amazed the clutch still works perfect and is still within wear specs.

Thanks! Brapp!

Just curious, what is the cause of dragging in a clutch that seemingly has developed overnight? My cage is not notched and I've been using Rotella consistently. I did have a water pump failure recently so I wonder if the coolant soaked disks could be an issue.

I would bleed your clutch hydraulics.

Immediately change the oil of the gearbox.

Oil contaminated with water attacks the separator discs, that rust and contaminate the friction discs. I could prove this on Saturday, my neighbor who has a YZ 125 had problem with the clutch, dismantled and checked the records, everything was in the specifications, but had to be replaced due to rust on the tabs discs.

After changing the clutch started to function properly (without dragging)

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...121-WA0008.jpg