Bogging at top end
 

Took my bike out for the first time last week with the supermoto setup on,noticed at the top end it was reluctant to rev out all the way sort of bogging and not getting to the power valve, I noticed I had it on reserve so I put it back to on and it sort of cleared,stopped for a while and went again and it was doing it again, I'm thinking that the jetting or powervalve need some adjustments,as it will be used on the road I'm looking for ways to make it scream at the top,got a fresco "big one" on order, was looking at maybe adding a larger main and dropping the needle.

Anyone experience similar ?

Which year, engine cc, carb, pipe, current jetting specs?

2011 ec300 standard at the min, will be using a fresco big one pipe with the fmf may chop it down

It's got a 40 pilot and 175 main N1EF needle #3

Ditch the N1EF, theyre poo.

Thats a scientific fact.

Ha right I'll get rid of that then, are the jd red needles any good I heard they are good with a different exhaust and bigger main or the N1EG

my GG started losing power up top bad and wouldn't rev out.
after checking the obvious, nothing changed.
then dumped the high test gas and ran race fuel[again]
problem solved
maybe the oxygenated gas?
idk

Sounds like it was waaay too lean. Race gas leans an engine out. If you were already on the lean side with pump gas then went to race gas you were on the verge of doing damage.


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Guys on here really like the nedw or nedj needles or the n3 series. I run the nedw and it is very linear and smooth power. The n3 provides a harder hit


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can you expand on the "N3" needles please?
N3 __ ? what are the last 2 digits or numbers that work well?
Thks. Cactus reid

N3E_ is half a clip richer than N3C_
The last spacer is the diameter. It couples with the pilot, the slide cutaway, the air screw, the slide height, and the float level. Different reeds, engine setups, carb models also impact this off idle area more than others.

Safe starting point is old AS1 carbs like an F/G diameter, the newer AS2 prefer W/J