2010 Sach stock suspension settings?
 

hi, i'm new to this forum. i have a 2010 ec300 with sach front and rear, i'm having a few problems with the rear shock. when its cold it seams fine, but when i've rode for a while and i try and adjust the clickers it doesn't seam to make any difference :confused: i've sent it in for a service today and then i'm going to try again with setting it up. i need a ball park settings to go from.
i weigh 86kg with riding gear.
cheers

G'day

The stock clicker settings for 2011, probably similar for 2010 are (all are clicks out from fully in) 25 clicks out rebound ( bottom of shock) 7 HS compression ( outer clicker top of shock) 6 LS compression ( inner clicker). That's a start. They work really well with a revalve so i recommend you pay the extra for a revalve for your weight, if it's already apart for a service.

You may need one size heavier springs front and rear , you should be looking for bike sag of 30 mm +- 5mm giving you 105 to 110 mm rider sag with less than 15 mm of spring preload on the shock (prefereably 10mm or less)

The oil might be shot in your shock, or the energizer o ring under the piston band is worn, your suspension guy will prolly check if he knows Sachs gear.

Cheers.

cheers for that mate, i found a post with some KTM part numbers for an alternative energiser o ring, but now i can't find it??
the suspension guy mainly does ktm so he's not that up to date with sachs, i want to find some more info on the main problems with this shock so i can let him know before he services it.
where i ride here in Slovenia its very steep, very technical, no fast open trails. if we go riding for a full day we only do about 25k. so my shocks are set on the soft side, i have 120mm of rider sag on the rear, so i only have 10mm of preload on the rear spring. we also only run about 8-9psi in the rear tyre. the climbs are very steep with poor grip and exposed tree roots, at the min its kicking of the tree roots which limits the drive, and when you lose drive for 1 second you stop.
neil

They seem to be the main two troubles, they are under valved in rebound and have a straight stack in the comp that is designed for more moto/ grass track so removing about 30 percent of your compression valving front and rear ( face shims) , and adding some rebound rear will get you closer if your not going through whoops etc. The fork base valve is easy to remove, plenty of info in other posts.

Cheers

cheers for the info :)