Unibear Chain
 

Anybody used a unibear heavy duty no no ring chain? Pretty cheap only ?24.99 on eBay.

Feedback would be appreciated

Don't do it, if you run non oring chains they wear quickly. I tighten my oring chain less than twice a year. Cheap chain destroys sprockets.

What about a good non oring chain.

I guess I have never found a good non oring. I just envision a non oring chain in sandy conditions wearing away and grinding in the dirt. Just my $.02 I can see it's place in sx or Mx. I have read quite a bit on them and it seems that a well lubed oring chain that is warmed up, will have the same resistance as a non chain. I got my info from the internet so who knows how credible the were.

My worst experience with a non oring chain was on my 06 YZ 250f riding Mx. I bough one of them there fancy pants blue non oring chains to get my power up. Ha what a joke, had to tighten it after each 3-4 lap set and after about 3 days of riding, mind you it was well lubed. I took the chain off and it dang near would stick out straight. Junk.

Thanks for your opinion guys

Not to bring up an old thread but I run only non oring on my dirt bikes. It is true that a oring keeps the dirt out to a degree, but it also hold dirt in. If you take a old oring chain apart you will find nasty, gritty, friction holding crud inside. And as far as a non oring getting stiffer it is because you are not lubing and cleaning very well.

I take my chain off every 2-300 miles and soak it in some solvent over night to get all the crud out of the links, then put it in a old coffee can full of 20w-50 oil and heat it on top of my shops wood stove for as long as I'm in the shop. The most important part is to let it cool in the oil so it don't run out of the link and the chain will be as limber as it was when new if not even better. I have tried sealing it with some of the spray wax chain lube, but I didn't think it helped much, so I just oil it every ride with PB Blaster and have yet to have a seized link.

But it is important to get a good non oring chain, I use d.i.d. and they can get as much as an oring chain. The cheap ones will stretch like crazy, I even broke the cheap one that the person I bought my ktm 620 from put on just to say it had new chain and sprockets, now run d.i.d. On it and haven't had a problem sense.

I only run oring chains & haven't ever had the need to do what you're suggesting........ and that's with the worst kinds of crap that can be thrown at them; Mud, water, sand, grit, mud, snow, dirt, rocks, more mud, you name it(Hey, it's Ontario....).

I wash my bike with a garden hose only(and a dirt release agent), then give the chain a squirt of WD-40 after washing is done. I can easily get 200+ hours out of a chain, but it's the sprockets that usually are gone by 150-175hrs, so the chain goes with them.
I don't waste money on fancy lubes, waxes, oil soaks, or what not, as I don't find they offer any net benefit. All the money I save by not buying all that crap pays for the next chain.

Power washers are probably the worst thing you can allow near a dirtbike & are probably the reason most o-ring chains die young.

Non o-ring chains are only useful in sealed oil-bath chaincases, like on a snowmobile.

I ride in the same Ontario conditons and don't do any chain maintenance (not even a spray with WD40). The chain only gets washed with water that drips from the rest of the bike when washing the bike. I wash the bike mostly just to check it over for loose or bent parts. I was amazed at how many pine needles and tree leaves were jammed in the mud covering the bike. My washing is done with a low pressure garden hose and an old paint brush.

I use top quality DID oring chain, stock front sprocket, Ironman rear sprocket and BRP chain guide. They were put on when the bike was new in the fall of 2010. Same parts are still on it today. The chain will get used until the rollers are sloppy.