Reiger Shock - parts diagram and disassembly
 

Had to pull the shock down again tonight to fix something, so I thought what the hell I'll take a few snaps and detail its disassembly. It's the exact same process as any other shock, but, like me, we all start somewhere and if you are trying to pull down a shock for the first time it can be a bit daunting. So first of all, (and with much thanks to Simmo) here is the parts diagrams, as supplied by Reiger:

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So to disassemble:

Start with the shock:
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Undo the preload rings to the spring is free to move up and down:

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Flip the shock over, push the bottom spring seat down (towards the top of the shock), revealing the circlip.

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Remove the circlip, remove the spring seat, remove the spring. You now have the shock on its own, ready to pull down.

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Use a chisel or similar instrument to tap the shock body cover free, it is a friction fit and slides down towards the clevis. Don't be scared of giving it a few assertive taps to free it up, just move around the cover so it frees up evenly and doesn't bind.

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Now undo the phillips head screw on the bottom of the reservior

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This exposes the rubber bung. Get your needle ready, remove the valve core so it will let all the pressure out of the bladder when you insert it:

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Remove the needle, push the bladder cap down into the reservior body enough to expose the circlip and then remove the circip:

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Screw a longer screw into the threads of the bladder cap, (I think its an M5 x 0.8mm thread) don't over tighten it, just use your fingers and you will feel when it bottoms out on the bung. Then use some pliers and a bit of force and pull up to remove the bladder from the reservior. Cycling the shock shaft up and down through the stroke will help push the bladder up and out:

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Nice work Nath. Is the SKF seal head stock?

Now the bladder has been removed, move over to the shock shaft, use force to push the seal head down into the body exposing the circlip (removing the bladder should have already sucked it down into the body a bit). Remove the circlip and then gently work the seal head followed by piston up and out of the shock body, leaving you with the body and reservoir with oil inside:

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Dump the oil, clean it up and hang it up to dry. Whilst not necessary you may choose to remove the compression adjuster assembly and clean it up too. A shifter on the 'nut' just behind the adjuster knob makes short work of this. Again not necessary for a service, or any reason really as its non adjustable and doesn't have a shim stack for HSC that can be altered like some other brands of shock. The adjuster can be pulled down further by clamping the silver end of the adjuster in soft jaws and then using a shifter on the 'nut' to undo it. Be mindful to have the adjuster wound all the way out (soft) when disassembling and be wary of the spring (see parts diagram):

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Clamp the clevis/shaft into a vice revealing the piston and shim stack. No point in undoing the 19mm nut and removing this unless you plan on re-valving, in which case remember when re-assembling that the smaller holes (rebound valve ports) face up.

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I didn't pull the shock down any further - it is possible to split the shaft from the clevis and access the rebound clicker assembly but I didn't see the need. I've had this shock re-valved by a tuner here in Australia who is a big advocate of race tech rebound separator valves and he commented this shock doesn't need one after looking at it, so thats good enough for me, and in any case there is no need to pull the shock down this far for a revalve or service.

To re-assemble its almost the reverse procedure, but I'm not going to write it up as there are plenty of good youtube videos on how to re-assemble and hand bleed a bladder shock.

One final word of warning, don't over tighten the bleed port screw situated on the top of the shock body on the opposite side of the shock body to the reservoir, it compresses against a rubber o-ring and when over-tightened you won't get it undone again without stripping the tiny allen head bolt meaning you will end up having to drill the centre of it out and using an easy out. (Ask me how I know :mad: ) If this should happen it an M5 x 0.8mm x 8mm screw. :D

Good luck.

Yep :D

Also for Simmos reference: the piston band is 246mm long, 1.02mm thick and 10mm wide.

Other random information is that the preload spring holding the HSC bleed valve shut is rated at 10N/mm (9.4mm OD, 1.22mm OD wire, 15.05mm free length, 4 active coils). It has a compressed length of 6.5mm.
At 26 clicks out there is 0mm preload on the spring meaning it can theoretically open the valve 8.5mm, at 0 clicks out there is 4mm preload on the spring meaning it can only theoretically open 4.5mm.

:D

Awesome!

I had my shock at the tuner. He got it all done, put it on the shock dyno and found the bladder was blown out.:(

I helped a mate service his Reiger off a '15 model the other day. @85 hours his bladder was blown too.

Pretty sure he said he went to a local suspension tuner and a Showa shock bladder out of a CRF is the same dimensions and fits. I'll confirm that and post up here.