Eectric starter 2018?s..
 

Has there come any service bulletins from Gasgas of the electric starter of 2018 models?
I have a GP 2018 as my dealer says the cdi box and flywheel has been changed from the factory (build in december) but still have problems with the starter?

I have pulled an extra grounding cable between the start and the battery but alike, but only starts a little while it wants.
So annoying that im not can trust at the starter.

Any ideas?

Mine was solved with a good proper charge of the battery, the lithiums even when low will spin the bike up ok, but not start. I also wet modded and upgraded the lead and it doesn?t even think about spinning now it has already started!

Mine is the same with the battery charge. Normal 12.3volts was fine to spin the starter but wouldn't start the engine. Charged the battery on my lithium charger which I think from memory stops charging at 14.8v. Now the bike starts everytime. Have to be very careful with charging the lithium batteries though as they don't like being over charged.. I also ran a thicker earth wire.
Regards
Josh

Ok. No its the same for me with charged battery, even tried battery from car and its the same. It will "klick" like its not enough whit power...

Its never start on the first push of the startbutton but after that it will start do and then and when it works its never i sign of low power, im wondering if the problem can be in the start button?!

Im think if the problem was the battery it will be the same every time but it doesn't..

I have not looked at a schematic wiring diagram but if there is a starter relay, it could be defective. A bad relay can make clicking sounds but if the contacts are not mating properly not enough voltage gets to the starter motor because too much voltage is lost on the bad contacts.

Try to jump across the starter solenoid and see what it does. I had all sorts of starting issues with my 2018 even after all the ground straps and stuff were done. Put a 210cca Shorai battery in it and never once has it failed to start with the button


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Contact your dealer first and foremost. I know that's not what you want to hear, but i have EXTENSIVE experience with this issue. On an 18 300 EC and an 18 300 GP.

Now when my dealer get me a new wiring between battery / Starter and a more powerfull battery and update cdi-box the bike work great!:)

yup.. my gp300 starts perfect now.. even after sitting for a few days.

Starter 2018
 

Definatly a ground issue on these starters ...ive had to add the earth wire to the battery and that has got it starting stronger than when mine was new.Febuary 2018 bike

Could you post a pic of what you have added?

I just happen to have the seat and tank off mine. This is what my dealer added and then I added a Shorai battery and haven’t had an issue one.

The first photo shows the new ground cable attached to the stator housing.
The second shows the other end of the cable connected up by the coil.
The 3rd is the “new” battery.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b890d90f2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1ca3b69207.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...20bb36bb3a.jpg


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Thanks for the pics! Going to have to do that to mine next.

Mine was having a little trouble starting in gear on hills after stalling - spinning but not starting - so last night I put in a Skyrich/SSB 220cca battery & ran a dedicated earth from the starter mount to the battery -ive terminal.

Starter worked super-strong in gear on hills today - appears to be fixed.

How good is the suspension on these bikes? Superb.

So it is seeming that the starter cable upgrade, battery 220 cca upgrade and possibly the CDI re-map is fixing the problem. Is the e-start button now starting the bikes when cold or are you using the kick starter for the initial start and the e-start button for subsequent starts?

-5c bike was not started for a week. This is after the upgrades. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gwu4ZiTYpf4

Thanks for the video. My 2018 spins the motor really well but it will never fire up when cold. I see you replaced the rotor too. Maybe that's the next problem to address. I will contact my dealer tomorrow.

I have a 18 EC250 and my dealer sended me a Skyrich 4Ah 240cca battery and a ground cable that runs from the battery to the startmotor bracket. And also a positive (red+) cable from battery to the starter relay and now it starts both hot and cold.
Before the upgrade it only started when the engine was hot and the battery was fully charged.

Is it a ground cabel the black that come with the battery?
I thought that it was a replace for the thiner + cabel to start engine.

I'm not sure actually. I think you might be right that it replaces the + cable. Maybe i have misunderstood since lots of people have been talking about the ground. And it also says "negativo bateria" on the bag the cable came in.
But it made a big difference for me to only replace the ground and using the old battery.

My CDI is updated and the rotor is th eone with the bigger recess. I replaced the battery with a Shido, then added a ground cable exactly like shown in the pics above. I also added a thicker gnd cable to the battery.

Then I took the ignition cover off, cleanded everything, put a bit of fresh grease on the gears but still no improvement. My dealer has no clue and I admit I give up!

When you say you replaced the starter relay what did you take instead? Another new OEM starter relay or an aftermerket product?

Thx
Doc

I would add a larger power cable as well. Also, did you replace the battery with the same size or one with ampere hour battery?

Fellas, must?ve had a lucky day above - the starter is still dicking around.

The bike starts first kick when cold but the starter spins & spins. This must be a weak spark if starting cold on the button, no?

Anyways, I reset my plug gap to the upper range of the manual - new BR8EG, 0.8mm - and the bike started cold on the stand with the choke on with a short stab of the start button.

I checked the battery & it?s charging at 13.63v @ approx 3000rpm & is holding 13.43v static.

Fatter spark? Dunno, but it started, so that?s a, er, start...

Ok, the + cable is still the original one. Following a dealers advice I installed exactly the same battery just that it is a Shido.

@Gibnut: my starter doesnt spin the engine though the voltage was always around 13 volts. It turns just a bit then blocks and makes a whining sound. Then I wait a few seconds and sometimes it turns over the engine quite well. the warmer the engine is the easier the starter turns it over...

I've come to the conclusion that the electric start on these is largely decorative.

I have sent a photo of my CDI with the serial to a dealer to check if it has been upgraded, but havent heard back as yet. Fingers crossed it might need an upgrade to make it work properly.

The upgrade on mine didnt change anything.

That makes me sad. I kind of like the idea of an electric leg.

Just take the time to get it sorted. Larger + and - wiring, larger ampere hour battery, and updated CDI seems to have fixed most. Of course, the dealer should be figuring it out as it is a new bike. You listening GasGas?

Eectric starter 2018?s..
 

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Yeah, not sure that this dealer I purchased from is full bottle on this. He only had 2 GP300s and the pre delivery apparently missed a few things, like fitting the chain and rear sprocket, moving the horn etc.

I've upgraded the main + cable to the start solenoid to an 8GA cable and run a heavier cable again from battery - to the bolt that holds the starter on.

No marks on the CDI indicating it has been flashed, so waiting to hear back from a new dealer who are really across these models (owner rides a GP300 competitively). Problem is to get to them I need a cut lunch, a roadmap, a water bottle and a few hours.

Me too...
 

Hey guys, picked my bike up 2 days ago. I had the dealer fit the upgraded + from battery to relay and the earth cable from battery to engine prior to pickup. They removed the original earth cable all together. They also fitted a brand new lithium ion battery off their shelf rated at 140cca. I got maybe 5 or 6 starts out of this setup before i just got the click. After half hour ride off the kickstart there was enough power to turn the engine over but not fire....

Is anone running a heavier gauge + wire from relay to starter?

Not to mention the headgadsket has a slight weep, it has been suggested to me that i should flush the coolant and switch to a low glycol coolant as the high glycol coolant can bypass the o ring.....

May experiment over the weekend.

Kick it cold like recommended and starting won?t be a problem after that.

Check the coolant hoses. Or get a shop pressure test the system. Glycol won?t effect a viton oring.

Cheers for the reply. Just waiting on my trickle charger to rock up so i can get a full charge back into it. I want to refit the original earth as well as the replacement/additional one supplied by GasGas. I will make sure not to use the starter when cold from now on and see how it goes.
Will go over the hoses again tomorrow. didnt see anything obvious today but will make sure everthing is tight and give her another run.

If you use a trickle charger or a charger with a de-sulfatimg function you'll kill your battery instantly.

However, today I installed a new, much thicker positive wire between battery and starter relay. I already installed a thicker negative wire from battery to frame and between ignition coil and starter bracket.

Nothing changed. Today I borrowed a power package, removed the battery and used the quick start power package, a pro device with which you can start a Tiger tank after its been parked for 40 years. You can imagine how surprised I was that it did exactly the same as with a fully loaded OEM or Shido YTZS7 battery. It hesitated, youst a knock from the starter motor, then the whining sound. Second attempt and it immediately started.

I re-charged the OEM and the Shido batteries with a special LiIon charger and tested again. Engine cold, first attempt just a clattering noise, then the whining sound. Second attempt it turned over immediately. I then made an acid test and started while depressing the kill button.
Both batteries turned the engine over nice and powerful for over 7 seconds before they got a bit slower. The Shido has a bit more power though.

However, I have no clue what is the cause but I know its not the battery. The same problem appeared with the quick start power pack and this unit is a strong beast.

Its not the relay, its not the wires and its not the battery. I am confused. And I am even more confused as it starts much better once the engine is fully warmed up.

I dont think its the well known KTM problem of a too weak starter. It must be something mechanical inside the starter gear, bendix etc. My dealer is also confused and doesnt know the cause...

My bike does exactly what yours does. It will start cold with one kick, yet on the button, the starter will spin the motor but the bike won?t start. I was on a ride with 2 x 300GP?s recently that both started cold @ 7c first stab of the starter. Go figure. Hence, I don?t buy all this ?You gotta warm up a lithium battery..? stuff. My RR started with the same battery every time - I never used the kickstart once in one 12 month period.

It seems obvious that the electrical system (on some ?18 bikes) is sending too much current to the starter & not enough to the spark plug lead. My Skyrich 220cca Li-Ion battery charges at 13.64v @ 3000rpm & holds 13.5v idle.

I never attempt to start mine cold on a ride on the button & the starter mostly works fine (even in gear on hills when the bike is warmed up). But, coming off a Beta I need to readjust my expectations of starters.

I?m trying!

Yes, I still love the bike!!

Ps - just got the head modded by TSP in Melbourne to drop squish from 2.3mm to around 1.5mm - will report when I get out again..

I see you're from down under. Thats cool, half of my famili lives there. If you drill a hole in the floor of your living room and you drill deep enough you'll end up im my living room :) I am from Austria.

The problem with my bike is, that the starter doesnt crank the engine on the first push of the button. Once it turns it over it starts fine. I do it exactly like you said, first start I use the kicker then when the engine is warmed up it works acceptable. But it annoys me that I am always unsure if it will start when out in the woods. Just doesnt feel good.

Cheers
Steve

Was at a Vinduro last weekend and a mate had a 2011 EC300. Showed him pics of my GP300 and mentioned that the starter was largely decorative and he was amazed.

Stone cold, he gave his 2011 a flick and it idled. Choke on. Right in front of me.

Made me sad briefly. I have had Gasgas Australia confirm my CDI is delivered with the revised tune as well.

Got my bike back yesterday. The 140cca battery has been replaced with a 220cca SSB. Starting seems a lot better at this point, i have been for a short ride today and started cold on the kick starter then after 10 min riding i did maybe 5-6 stop starts a few minutes apart on the button. Seems to fire well, not KTM well, still needed a double press a couple of times but much better than before. My bike still only has about 3.5 hours on it so it may improve as it loosens up.

So to recap, I have the upgrade Gasgas + from battery to solenoid and - from battery to engine and now the new battery. Old cables removed.

Will see how it performs over the next week, will be commuting to from work on the bike. Looking good so far.

Was there ever any official gasgas starter fix issued. I followed the thread until is got stopped and i see they were working on it. This is about 8 months later now, plenty of time to gather data and trial fixes ect.

Mine has all of the issues mentioned, spins but wont start, sometimes just click, sometimes wont turn at all like battery is dead. its like the bloody KTM fiasco all over again.