2018 GP250 not charging
 

I have had the bike 7 weeks and ridden every weekend. Prior to this weekend I have not had a problem with the e start. The lithium batt was flat when I picked the bike up so I charged it to 15v. Usually I see the dash show lower then full charge and I if I don?t use the fan this will increase to full. This ride the dash never showed less then full charge and battery was to flat to turn motor over. I used the kickstart to finish ride and stayed on tracks I didn?t need the fan for over an hour and still no e start.
Getting home I checked the battery and it had 12.1v in it. Charged it to 15v and starts fine. I also disconected the battery and checked volts on the lead and had 13.5v.
Has anyone else had charging issues?
Thx wuz

You would have to hook up a voltmeter to the battery and run the engine to see what the charging voltage is.

You probably have a bad battery. It should have had a full charge when picked the bike up.

Yes I agree the battery should have been charged. The dealer is an hours drive away so I didn?t want to have to go back again to pick up so I charged it myself. The voltmeter shows 13.5 when the motor is running on the positive terminal with the lead disconected so there is not broken wire blown fuse. I?m going to borrow a battery to check if his lithium will charge in my bike to.
I had a good look at the wireing diagram in the manual and think the dash dash unit controls the battery charge as it is the only conection from the red power wire from regulator to the yellow/red that goes to the battery. As the voltmeter in the dash showed full all ride I?m wondering if I changed the charged voltage in the dash when I had the battery out the other day and put it back in at a lower voltage.
I fitted a lead acid 12v batt and it charges so I may have to go back to one of them

You have a bad battery.

Remember, you can't lay the lead acid battery on its side.

AGM will cope with being on it's side. Traditional lead acid won't, AGM is a hybrid lead acid. But check spec for that specific one.
A mate had a lithium die after short life.
Promise so much, but.

Just wondering can the ecu in the bike recognise whether or not it has a lithium battery as opposed to a calcium or gel battery. I know the charging requirements are different between lithium n calcium/gel batteries. I cannot charge a lithium battery on a normal charger at home so is there something inbuilt into the software on the bike?? Just a thought..
regards
Josh

That's a very interesting point Josh. I hadn't considered it. My trickle charger here is no good for the lithiums either and I doubt I'll put my hand in my pocket to buy a special charger. Probably just buy a decent battery every 12 months..

I still don't know why I'm bothering with the button. Just as happy to kick the bastard in the guys. Might see what a plastic stator cover is worth.

That?s what I was trying to so in the OP referring to the changing the dash voltage. I charged the battery to 15v and installed and started bike. Then hooked up a bulb and drained the battery to 14.8v and let sit for 5mins to recover then started bike again and ran for a few minutes and the volts came up marginally to 14.95 so that looks promising.
I don?t like leaving the bike idle to long so will test on the weekend.
To this point no components have been changed.
Thx for all the input guys :)
Wuz

The ECU doesn't know what type of battery is in the machine. All it needs is for the voltage to stay up while cranking. This only happens with healthy battery.

A battery can show OK voltage but still fail a load test. I'd put in the largest Lithium Ion battery that will fit (new battery).

Ok, so what is there to stop it from over charging a lithium battery and having it explode? Thought there would be some safe measure. I know if I leave my lithium battery on charge then up over 15 volts they have a tendency to explode..