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And nobody cares what you haven't seen.Which you can't quite get over. Their is a back story here where the "know" can be very important when everyone including the original manufacturer is telling you that you have a problem.And the one guy that should know is telling you that you don't have a problem. |
What Happens When You Park Your Bike and Leave it for 26 Years
This bike is 33 years old, it has been sitting in a garage for 26 years.
I split the cases on Saturday, here is what everything looked like so far. Before you touch anything have one of these.This is the Genuine Suzuki manual and I was skeptical when I bought it. Its a small sized book, but it actually is a shop manual with step by step pictures on splitting the cases and all other procedures. https://i.imgur.com/vlJZb2Fm.jpg I used a Tusk case splitter, it works really well. I just made sure the splitter was level with the cases and I slowly pulled them apart. I had to loosen the splitter a few times to make sure the cases came apart evenly. https://i.imgur.com/crvJbLCm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5YlkSRXm.jpg Here is the inside. No damage from failed components etc, just damage from neglect. Check out the water line on the crank and the case. https://i.imgur.com/b8X86Tqm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BkrMshVm.jpg |
The Transmission looked just fine, all the cogs were good and the bearings are fine.
https://i.imgur.com/FDGDLr3m.jpg I had to wait until my puller arrived to remove the flywheel. I have six flywheel puller none were the right type. I bought a round puller but it was too wide to line up to the two holes on the flywheel. Those two holes are 29mm apart so I searched for a puller that would work. https://i.imgur.com/vRSHbIdm.jpg Ok this is the puller that works for the 84 RM 250 E. It is a oem puller for a KTM 50 SR/JR Part Number 59029021044 believe it or not...lol.... https://i.imgur.com/Oug9Rmym.jpg Here it is mounted up. Its made much better than the other pullers that I have seen and the 3 sets of bolts are much higher quality. This puller width is about 28mm min and adjusts to a much larger width as well. This puller worked really well, I think a cheaper puller would have broken taking off this flywheel. Good tool, worth the money. https://i.imgur.com/tLAPObom.jpg |
IF Have a Bike Stored in Your Garage, Change the Oil and Start it Every Other Month
I pressed the crank out of the case without any problem.Here is what it looked like.The rod looks like new but the lower rod bearing is seized with rust.I am going to send the crank to the machine shop for a beadblast, rebuild and balance.
https://i.imgur.com/MHnWfpqm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/sAaaHHhm.jpg Both main bearings are completely seized with rust. Some sludge in the bottom of the cases but the bike had never been run with the old oil,so the transmission gears, forks and bearings were clean.The cases should clean up well. https://i.imgur.com/V2a6tbEm.jpg |
PowderCoat, Anodize or Cerkote?
Here is where we are at the moment. I going to have the cases beadblasted and refinished. The original motor color is black. Which coating and color should we use? What does everyone think?:D
https://i.imgur.com/d0CATY3m.jpg |
If you want to keep the case paint simple, shaker can PJ1 case paint is nice.
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Make sure they aren't too aggressive with media. Done right that will give a great key for the paint if grease fully cleaned. Done wrong it will shred the thin ally. Make sure they know what they're doing.
PJ1 used to give a great finish, apparently the formula has had to change but I'd try it for sure. |
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I just wondered why we do not see the lighter magnesium parts on the modern race bikes. I heard stories about F1 cars, Niki Lauda's Ferrari that he crashed at Nurburgring in 1976, used a lot of magnesium parts and that they were prone catch fire and burn at an intense heat range. Here is Lauda's crash. https://jalopnik.com/forty-years-ago...ier-1784656102 I saw this FAA article some magnesium must be in a molten state before it can ignite. https://www.fire.tc.faa.gov/pdf/ar11-13.pdf |
I am trying to match up a color code to powdercoat my frame.
Here is a shot of the frame, however most of the frame color is darker than the stock color because someone painted a darker blue on parts of the frame with a brush.(a brush, I kid you not.) https://i.imgur.com/Zl05PiNm.jpg After checking several colors, I found this RAL CODE 5015 which is a 79 Bultaco Color. http://www.ralcolor.com/ Does this look close to the original Suzuki color? |
In short anodising (however you wish to spell it) can be applied to a certain range of Allys with good sucess but some just won't be successful. Cast used to also be a virtual no no. But sort of recently the high pressure casting technology with the right alloy works.
So no to your cast cases. My old 1980 TT500 had sidecover marked Magnesium so people didn't try Weld it inappropriately. Still used in manufacturing but more expensive. |
Colour? Don't ask me I'm colour blind, but PJ1 used to do a grey that looked like the RM colour of some years and I painted my Suzuki roadrace engines and they looked quite smart.
Some mates put an old bent roadrace mag on the bonfire and apparently it went up quite a treat. But they couldn't put it out when campground owner complained. There were stories about the Shefield that got lite up in Falkland war back in the 80s being made with Magnesium, but apparently that was (wait for it. . ) fake news. |
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Hmm. I've never used Cerakote but been told it's the biz for calipers etc as it's thin but really tough. Popular with the gun crowd.
Maybe there's different grades under the same name, or its hard to apply correctly? but I guess time will tell what is the real story. I'm currently getting a bunch of stuff done in powder for our military grade products. There is a lot said about powder but the truth is always a bit more complex. It is an industrial coating so getting a consumer grade finish is difficult. Many places will coat your stuff in an open plant next to garden furniture and wrought iron gates. Grit can be introduced in the oven. That said for cases they don't have to be perfect and the masking is easy, however be clear what you want masked as you will be unhappy if you can't fit the water pump anymore. Durability is a factor of preparation. Stories of it flaking off are due to oil contamination. But consideration should be given to the chromate conversion. Older non Rohs treatments were more tolerant and keyed better. Newer friendly versions can work well but cleaning process is far more involved if you want good adhesion. I've seen people try to just swap treatments with no other changes and paint flaking becomes an issue. One that many customers probably don't care or notice. Cases would need some real good cleaning as thread holes can bleed oil in the oven which will cause blotches and adhesion issues. I wonder how porous cast magnesium alloy is? Your painter may deal in motor parts and armed with a few sharp questions you should be able to work out if they are the chaps for you or to try someone else. But then again, maybe don't listen to me, I seem to have a history of misinformation.;) |
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More of that noise I be talking about. I'd much rather listen to PJ-1 guy.Sounded like "an" option.He's done it.And it was a good practical useful suggestion. PJ-1 it and twist on. Life's short. |
And I can recognise a type 'A' personality. I wouldn't waste my time to try tell you anything.
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FYI. Just watched a video of DIY ceracote.
https://youtu.be/90bGRCKvQDo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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I cleaned the rust out of the barrel with a scotchbrite pad. It doesn't look took bad but there is some pitting in the bottom 1/4 of the barrel. Will a hone take this out this pitting or do we need to bore the liner to .25 over to the 1st oversize piston?
https://i.imgur.com/QubqZEQm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QCTqZ7Om.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mNR15sTm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/J2U3slmm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uA0sLMxm.jpg Also, the piston only has an arrow on top (to be installed point to the exhaust port) and a number "3" stamped inside the skirt. I took a measurement of the piston and it was 69.900 which is close to the service limit for a std bore piston and the ring end gap was right at the the .85 ring end gap service limit. * Does the #3 on the piston mean it is a std size piston within the production limits, like A;B;C marked pistons for niksail cylinders or is it something else? https://i.imgur.com/sxKToIZm.jpg |
Can you get a close up shot of the top of the piston.Any numbers stamped in it?
If that's a legit service manual then everything you need to know is in it. Should give you the numbers for the bore and how to check that the bore is true and in spec |
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https://i.imgur.com/Y6VzATnm.jpg Here is the pic before clean up. https://i.imgur.com/PqdWkWIm.jpg |
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Just get the specs from the service manual and mic everything.
Go from there. Suzuki dealer- LA Sleeve- NOS EBay etc. |
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What Kind of Puller Do I Need for this Clutch Shaft and Bearing?
What kind of puller do I need to remove this clutch shaft and bearing?:confused::rolleyes::eek:
https://i.imgur.com/gWIwChTm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/X0bWOigm.jpg |
I removed the rear shock, swingarm and Floater Link last Saturday.
https://i.imgur.com/Es6cZbsm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ebZhu0um.jpg https://i.imgur.com/UWgEzEem.jpg |
Its been 20 years since I've messed with that era Suzuki so I can't tell you for sure.
But shouldn't need a puller. Make sure any seal or snap ring or clip or in some cases the shaft has a groove and there can be a keeper locking that down.Its not in front of me. But once you get everything freed from the shaft internally and any keeper if there is one removed.Put actuater arm back on the shaft.Lock it down on there good and tight and either--- Turn it as you pull up on it and you may find it drops through and then locks in when it gets in the right position.In your case comes out.Like a tumbler in a lock. Or gently pry up on it as close to the splined shaft as you can get and under the actuator arm and kinda pry and wiggle it and see if you can get it to pop up. Shouldn't need to force it.Don't force it. You'll get the idea. Without it in front of me that's all I got. |
If none of that works load it up and take it to the scrap yard.
Scrap prices up I heard and its not to late to get out. |
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Sorry for the delay but I was super busy at work this week.
I pulled off the radiators, coil, CDI and the front suspension. The rads look really good, I am going to have the rads and the rad guards anodized. The bike still had the stock handle bars but they had been tweaked hard and were not usable, I put them in the circular file. https://i.imgur.com/sYnDsEam.jpg https://i.imgur.com/B4cCXJ0m.jpg Upper triple clamp was a ball bearing not a tampered bearing and it was destroyed, ball bearings everywhere and part of the cage stuck in the upper race. https://i.imgur.com/DLwFjgcm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Vf6TQVMm.jpg Note the ball bearings laying on top of the lower tapered bearing. https://i.imgur.com/vAdrAYkm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/k04LlvAm.jpg |
Coil and shots of the races.
https://i.imgur.com/prJTobVm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GXQJ6eSm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7GrmA0Km.jpg https://i.imgur.com/CXMbXRjm.jpg Forks look great. https://i.imgur.com/skrWLKgm.jpg Here is a shot of the aluminum full floating rear brake arm for the rear drum brake. https://i.imgur.com/3jrIKPum.jpg |
Next I started on the wheels.
Here is the rear wheel. https://i.imgur.com/gk0D3sDm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Z3FCiUTm.jpg Here is the front. https://i.imgur.com/hzNXtyum.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hzNXtyum.jpg Here is something you don't see anymore. Dual shoe front brake with a magnesium backing plate.:D https://i.imgur.com/bgojswLm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TgtZSJYm.jpg Upper and lower alignment marks for the brake arms. https://i.imgur.com/FkBigUBm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1QpDy2Hm.jpg |
These were the original wheels. The spokes on both wheels were completely seized from rust and the rear rim had a crack.I will be ordering a new set of excel rims with Buchanan spokes and tubliss with new Metzeler Unicross tires.
This crack is probably repairable. https://i.imgur.com/WHTm3g8m.jpg Front rim looks great. https://i.imgur.com/X9qi9rbm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/39yYkizm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YMdlWFAm.jpg Both hubs almost ready for powdercoat. https://i.imgur.com/ZOxWOwxm.jpg |
If you haven't seen a full floater rear suspension then this is what it looks like. I raced one of these bikes in the mid 80s for a couple of races. The Hondas had more power, but floater suspension was vastly superior to everything else.
https://i.imgur.com/4SxshWPm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QcYGu0Om.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LKx3Kjhm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IH5a1f9m.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MM9npsxm.jpg |
I removed the footpegs and brake pedal from the frame. I measured the footpegs' they are around 30mm or about have the size of the foot pegs on my Honda and GasGas. Someone posted on another forum that 96-2002 rm 250 foot pegs will bolt right up if you drill out the holes on the frame just a little for the bigger pins.Does anyone know if this is true?
https://i.imgur.com/T8QP1lqm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1oNJ44qm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wMPFDcVm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8JwZDoMm.jpg 34 year old brake pedal doesn't look too bad.... https://i.imgur.com/ipI4WcUm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MpxIZIxm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/m4tBvepm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BwdoxqYm.jpg As of this morning here is where we are on the build.Suspension will be boxed up to go to Drew Smith at Works Enduro Rider for full rebuild. Every thing else will be going to powdercoating / anodizing or will be replaced with new oem Suzuki parts. Cylinder and head will be going to Procircuit for boring and porting. I will try to match up a new Rekluse Clutch Basket and Rekluse Auto Clutch. I have an Ohlins SD 571 steering dampner but I'm not sure that I can adapt it to this model, we will see. https://i.imgur.com/q5rRFoAm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6MlrUWom.jpg |
Doin good work man.
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Ok I removed the clutch actuator from the left case. I put a torch on it and I was able to tap the shaft and the bearing out.There wasn't a keeper or lock ring.
https://i.imgur.com/cfOaQm7m.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YMvrs9Em.jpg There was a hole in the top of the shaft about 6mm deep, It appears Suzuki had a special attachment for a slide hammer tool that fit into the hole, but I could not find it or a picture of it anywhere. https://i.imgur.com/5U1MlFDm.jpg |
I got a little bit done this weekend. I removed the bearings from both hubs.
Here is the front hub. https://i.imgur.com/p8UFLjgm.jpg Here is a partial shot of the rear hub, note the the nest. https://i.imgur.com/pHqYossm.jpg Bearings came out of both hubs without a problem. The front hub looked like new inside. https://i.imgur.com/NOAfKu4m.jpg The front and rear bearing spacers looked like new. I think these are the original spacers and bearings from the factory. https://i.imgur.com/S790SaVm.jpg Then I pulled the bearings out of the swingarm. I used a Motion Pro Suspension Service Tool and once I broke the bearing loose, I used an Impact Wrench on the low power setting to spin the tool. It was fast work, 5 minutes each side and the bearings were out. https://i.imgur.com/9iqKQuCm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7EsPaBXm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/g1urNgQm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9NLyUr9m.jpg The bearings were not worn, but they were rusted very badly. https://i.imgur.com/yZl6PL4m.jpg The interior of the swingarm looked fine, it just needs some cleanup. https://i.imgur.com/oGBCM8Mm.jpg |
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