Shiver 45 2011 Midvalve or check valve?
 

Hi Folks,

Was delving into the forks last night to swap to some heavier springs and change the stacks. (Springs are incorrect sold as 0.48kg/m but are same in every way to my original 0.42 so waste of time anyway lol)

I got the rebound piston off and found this arrangement.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/att...9&d=1517567874

Is it a very heavy check valve or an attempt at mid valve?
Damper rod
Spring
6x 14.3
1x 23.3
Piston
Rebound stack
Nut.

I looked through the shiver manual and it only shows a single shim with the spring to operate as a check valve on the rebound piston.

Cheers

Also if building mid valve do you keep the spring?
I suspect not but want to check.
thanks

All that a check valve is, is a very stiff mid stack with a large float. Essentially it is open or closed.

You keep the spring to keep the stack closed under normal operation.

A lighter stack with less float will force the fluid displacement to consume the float as the stack also continues to flex opening the ports.

When you build a mid valve you keep the spring. So far I've found on these running a bypass/checkplate is best. On my forks I have a 22x0.3mm and then the spring, that's it. I'd say I ride faster than average enduro and it suits me well.

Change of opinion completely. Ridden the forks that were on the spare bike and spent a day playing with the clickers. Mid valve changed everything!!! I rang up the company that had serviced them and they had know knowledge of ever doing them apparently, so when I next get them apart I will post the stacks here.

I advise changing the check plate mid to a true midvalve since that will improve the fork action. I revalved mine and listed my stacks in a previous email. See below.

Both the base valve piston and the midvalve/rebound piston have bleed holes already drilled into them from the factory to make the forks feel plush while trail riding at leisurely speeds and rock gardens. For good fork stroke control going faster the bleed shims are generally removed.

I am just now starting to work on these Zoke forks on my new to me 2007 EC300 as I have never had a pair before.

I opened up one of mine yesterday and found that it had been revalved already, but the stacks looked unbalanced, with a lot more shims on the base valve than the mid valve. The base valve had 12 22x.1 face shims, way too many. The midvalve looked reasonable, except for the 18x.1 bleed shim (on top of the bleed hole already drilled in the valve). I suspect this setup is way unbalanced with too much damping on the base valve and too much bleed on the mid.

I am going to try this (credit to Motosportz, Kyle Tarry & GMP at CafeHusky):
Base Valve:
22.1 (3x)
14.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1

Midvalve assembly (rebound stack on top with midvalve stack below piston):
<nut>
15.1
17.1
18.1
19.1 (2x)
22.1 (2x)
<piston>
22.1 (2x)
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
18.1

Float is about 1mm with this midvalve setup

I am going to try 130 mm air gap using Mobile 1 ATF (7.5 wt)

This fork had a broken oring on the base valve so the fluid was leaking out and there was only about 400 ml left when I dumped it out. It must have been about 200 ml too low because it required just under 600 ml of fresh ATF to create a 130 mm air gap.

I also need to replace the bushings and seals. I need to order them and then will pull down the 2nd fork and revalve it too.

I have no idea what condition the shock is in, I suspect it needs an overhaul too, so I should really do that before riding the bike again.

Good luck with your bike. Steve[/QUOTE]