Breaking in suspension
 

Hi guys

I ride a 2013 EC250.
I weigh 68kg.
Standard springs might be one notch too harsh. I prefer plush (rocks, technical single track)

I found plenty info regarding ENGINE break in procedures (from 2 tanks low rev, to climb on and ride race pace)

Very little on SUSPENSION break in procedures
I have Sachs at the back and Marzocchi in front.
start settings?
manual standard settings?
terrain for break in?
ride time before oil change?
when to revalve?

Any other useful info


Thank you

Based on your location you will have the 45mm zokes. It seems that the rest of the world went with the 48 zokes and don't get confused as most of the comments on this site refer to the 48's and are loved, from what I have noticed the earlier models had 45 zokes and they sounded disastrous, requiring recoating of the internals and major revalves to get them right (Trevor from rockgarden says the new 45's are nice)

With regards to break in of suspension there is not much to do other than ride to loosen up bushes and get the seals sliding nicely. I am not an expert, but there are some on the forum and I have personally had great help from twowheels on the forum. I am sure some of the experts will be able to assist with your other questions

I'm also no expert, but agree with what Matt has said. You'll have the 45mm OC zokes, which can be setup well. I'm not sure how they came from the factory on the 2013 models, but I recall 2011 a number of people having setup issues.

Break in is just riding the bike until the moving parts get used to moving and find a home for themselves. Might take 10-20hrs. Ideally at this point you'd do a fluid change but not everyone does. Springs should be determined for your weight and riding style (using sag numbers and handling to help). A revalve is to correct handling traits that can't be tuned out with the clickers and your best results will come from riding the bike and making adjustments and recording how the changes impacted the handling. Then you will have some information to pass on to a tuner to assist them in making positive changes.

Thanks!!

I will play with the settings and hope the legendary plush-ness will revealed!

Stiff marzocchi 's
 

I have a 300 ec racing with the marzocchi 48 and have the same problem. Super stiff springs. It's Been 4 months since I purchased the bike. I've put about 25 hours on the bike including two races. I'm 165 lbs plus 15 lbs of gear. I've dialed the compression right out. Preload was backed right out from the factory and I still find it stiff. Any suggestions besides a softer spring?

Make sure your T clamps are not over torqued, and the fork/wheel,is aligned properly. Have you serviced the fork yet? If not do so, they are not always filled and bled properly. Stock springs should be good for your weight. Stock preload is 5mm, I prefer less, as you can always dial in more effective preload with PFP. I think stock valving is tame, lots of bleed. It could also be a rebound spike that you interpret as a compression problem. Lots to consider here I know. All this said, it's a CC fork and inherently stiffer than an open chamber fork if that is what you are used to.
It's a good fork that does not deflect, but has a firm, serious ride.

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I havnt serviced the fork yet, that's my next step. The preload was set at zero from the factory. That's all the way backed out. Is that right? From what I've read off the marzocchi site 1 turn equals .5 mm of preload. To get that 5 mm to 6 mm of preload suggested for enduro I would have to crank the preload in 10 to 12 turns which stiffens the spring. I want a softer floaty type feeling over the rocks, logs, roots opposite of what they suggest. So I'm not fighting the front end. A little confused.

I am no marzocci expert but I think you may be confusing spring preload with pfp adjustment. From what I have read the spring preload is set internally in 5mm increments. If you have too much preload it will feel harsher initially

Yeah , your right. I thought you could adjust the preload on the fly with the 2013 model. Not so. The PFP system just does fine adjustments to the compensator preload. Arghh!

Yes, that is true, but PFP (preload on the internal cartridge spring) also adds preload to the total. This why I reduced my main spring preload from 5mm to 2mm, so the PFP is more usable than 1 turn out of a 10 turn range.