'12 XC250R is in the woods!
 

Went out today for a couple hours on the new scoot. Did a lot of prep and setup work over the last week. All guards on including the Hyde. Started with the JD Blue needle #3, 180 main, 42 pilot. 10oz weight on the 2K-2. 13/51 gearing. Flexxbars and Scotts damper. To help ease the new fork stiction, I packed some seal grease under the wipers per Les's recommendation. Forks immediately felt less sticky. Every fastener checked. Ready to rock in the rocks.

Just screwing around the yard, this bike gives you the impression its going to beat the crap out of you in the rocks. Riding from my house means a steep rocky climb to get anywhere. The bike surprised me, it was firm, but did not deflect bad at all. I started with the PFP full soft, comp 20, reb 15. Sag at 105mm to balance the fork for starters. Everything seemed pretty good, much better than expected. This is with the stock tires as well, not the Tubliss that I will eventually run. Flexxbars have the stiff elastomers as to not skew evaluation of the fork. This is probably the best stock fork I've ridden yet. To me its all about having confidence in the fork not to deflect, and this thing is 90% there without laying a wrench on it. The 45s on my '07 are more plush and rock focused in valving, but control falls off when things get faster. This fork just seems to ask for more. A real good start. I didn't even think about the shock, I guess thats good. I might even get away with the stock springs.

The motor seemed very smooth, smoother than my '07 and perhaps not quite as strong off the bottom. I mounted the map switch on the bars but inboard of the brake perch so it does not get bumped accidentally. Doesn't seem to have much effect. To be fair this is a brand new motor and my '07 also has a head mod. Is very hot and humid, so I started with a 42 pilot rather than the 45 that I would normally use with this needle. In retrospect I think it was a little lean on the pilot, as I had to crank the air screw in to less than a turn to eliminate a hanging idle. I'll try a 45 pilot tomorrow, I expect that to add a little off idle. Everything else was fine, nice zingy feel with the 2K-2 +10oz. Not much clear trail here now to keep it pinned but it gets on the pipe fast.

I notice the height increase, but I'm getting used to it. Like others have said, its very stable. At first you think it must sacrifice the traditional GG steering but it is not the case. It puts the front wheel where you want it, and falls into turns very easy. I think this will only get better with breakin and more tuning.

Whats not to like? The seat fell off half way up a rocky climb!:eek: Probably my fault for not cranking the bolt tight enough, I was a bit conservative concerning the plastic. The lack of steering angle is a pain when having to U turn and find alternates around a fresh downed tree(a lot here from storms) but no concern otherwise.

Overall this is a great bike. Its not like going from an '07 to a '10, its a definite different feel, a more serious feel. I'll be out again tomorrow and then a few days in the ANF in western PA.

Nice Glenn, a worthy reward.

You may try a seat fix like McNut showed (about the same time I did the same thing on my own).

Sharpen a screw to a fine point and thread up through the bottom of the seat until you've made it through the foam and the point is evident under the seat cover. Press on the seat cover until the point breaks through. Take a round-headed Phillips screw (so as not to rip your pants) and a fender washer and thread them through the seat cover from the top into the nut in the seat base, far enough to be below the plane of the seat top.

Attach the seat to the lip on the tank and the battery box and drop the protruding screw through the hole in the fender. Top your assembly off with a large washer and a ny-loc nut and your "seat gone off yonder" problem is solved.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00572.jpg

Yes, good plan. I'd like to find a good captive nut setup for under the fender. Top bolt setup worked fine for years, I even used a low profile knurled thumbscrew for no tools access.

I think the difference was that '11 and prior had a subframe cross-brace to screw into. For the '12s you've got a plastic seat base (with captive nut) and a plastic fender.

When I screw down through the seat from the top I use the captive nut to hold the screw in place (mostly) when installing the seat, but I still use a screwdriver on the top and socket on the bottom.

If possible I'd like to go the tool free approach, to make easy use of that battery box for storage while trail riding. I used an M6 thumbscrew on my '07 and Ducati Hyper(same seat mount design) and it never came loose. I suspect because of the compression force from the foam. A rubber washer under the large fender washer protects the cover from tearing.