best settings for sand
 

l am entering an enduro event that has a lot of sand in it , l've never ridden on sand before :eek: :eek: so any set up tips would be helpful , :D

That's difficult unless it's all sand. I'd leave it as standard. I think sand is better with a harder setup particular on the front but that would mean if you have sections over roots and stuff it'll be ugly. When I race down in Hampshire which is sandy mixed terrain I don't change the suspension. Enduro setup is a compromise because the terrain varies so much in a lap.

I have spent lots of time at the Silver Lake Sand dunes in Michigain and even more time at my current dunes, the Saint Anthony sand dunes in Idaho. Sand dunes are a shocker for even the best rider. The big thing is use a stablizer and expect a lot of shake. The faster you go through the sand the less the trail rides you. It sucks you power so keep it on the top end. I dont know exactly what kind of sand you are expecting but it will be a good race. Get a new tire that has a paddle effect. Any good mud tire will work.

Just hit it hard. Good luck!!

MIKEB

I grew up riding in Florida sugar sand, so here is what works for me. If I'm setting up for a fast sand event I will run more compression damping. On my '00 EC 300 I would generally run the forks 4 clicks stiffer and the shock 2 clicks stiffer. Fast sand usually means big fast whoops. I run enduros exclusively anymore, so I tune along the way at resets and free times.

In slower sand events, or events that are less than 15% sand my suspension is tuned to my normal clicker settings.

As for riding the event. The sand is the best brake you have. The front brake is only to be feathered in deep sand. You can stuff it into a turn and bleed off most of your momentum. I try to be on the gas just before I start any turn in deep sand. I keeps the bike's front end from diving. The inside line in turns is rarely the fastest.

Mike Baxter

You may want to up the MJ size a couple larger sizes as sand makes the engine work harder and in the upper revs more. I grew up riding many sand tracks and the faster you go the better it is. Always search they outside edge of the trail, as it it usually smoother.
Claude

What event are you talking about?
If it's the Natterjack there isn't really that much sand it's mostly the special test and I wouldn't setup for that unless you are really on for a championship place - it's what about 10 minutes total out of 5-6 hours? The going is sandy but not deep soft sand and there are plenty of roots and rocks in places. For Natterjack if you setup for anything I'd do it for those endless damn whoops! :mad:

the race in question is the weston beach race , so there will be a lot of sand :rolleyes: ,l don't expect any tree roots :p , my thread was a little misleading as the event is more like a hare and hounds event than an enduro , l have been told that the start is completely bonkers a 1000 riders all setting off at the same time :eek: nervous you bet l am ,
mikeb thanks for the advise " just hit it hard and good luck " man of my own heart :cool: l think l will need a lot of the luck stuff , not to mention new bearings , thanks for all the advise

You must change your settings from standard. I agree with Loosenut, and would also recommend adding a couple clicks of rebound to both ends, maybe even one or two more in the rear. You don't want the rear end kicking around which could send you into a lurid swap. Hitting those big whoops requires dissipating that extra energy in a controlled fashion. The extra rebound will "store" that energy just for a bit, and let the chassis stay stable. Dropping your forks all the way down flush will add some more stability. If you are on a 300, it helps to just let the motor lift the front end over some of the big holes between the whoops, you don't even need the clutch.

Good luck, that race looks like the adventure of a lifetime!

Weston!!! oh well you had better setup just for sand. Not sure what wet Weston sand is like but when I rode wet sand at Slab Common - and that is mostly sandy woodland I wore the brake pads out in 1.5 hours! :eek: I was hardly using them but the wet sand gets stuck in them and acts like grinding past even when you're not braking. Maybe if it's all deep sand you don't need brakes - just roll the throttle off :)

I have never raced Weston but I reckon some of those filter skins might be an idea as well as new sprockets, chain and pads. I think you can assume sand will get everywhere so might be worth thinking what you might want to protect or tape up. The problem is wet or damp sand - the dry stuff just drops away and is no trouble.

Good luck though - let us know how it goes.

95% of the riding I do is in the sand. The big saying around here is "when in dout, GAS IT !!" which is particularly good on a Gas gas.

Keep the front end light and stay on the gas as long as possable. As stated above, the sand will provide much of your braking. Momentum will be the key to your sucess. You may notice that the bike will wander left & right when riding is sandy ruts. That wandering feeling is just part of the "feel" (that most riders hate about riding in sand) that just comes with the territory.

I set my rear sag really really low and have the forks riding at maximum height in the triple tree. This will give you stability in the streights, thereby reducing the risk of headshake. When your in the woods, you want the bike to turn on a dime through switchbacks and manuver around small obsticals, while staying planted on the trail. Now you want just the opposite ! Now, for sand, you want more of a "chopper" type set up, so you will not swap ends over those whoops and sandy ruts.

I like to run my front a tad on the stiff side and my rear a little soft. Im still messing with the rebound.