Float valve seat removal...?
 

Hi all

I have a 2004 EC300 witn a PWK38 ASI carb.

1. Can anyone tell me how to remove the float valve seat without damaging it?

2. Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the O ring?


I need to remove it and replace the O ring as it's leaking and causing the float bowl to overflow.

Thanks, Dave.

You know my brain is not accessing the information on pwk. I know the 28s are just in the body.
Either way check for hairs and crud in the tank. Esp once on reserve. Mate's one emptied in my van. Took months to get rid of the smell even after we ripped carpet out.

A ball bearing dropped down the hole and tapped smartly with a punch can resurface the hole often.

Hi F5

The float valve is closing and sealing correctly in the valve seat.

The problem is the fuel still flows around the outside of the valve seat, I'm guessing the O ring has failed, I'm guessing there's an O ring in there?!

Has anyone ever removed the valve seat?

Thanks, Dave.

Can you spray it with some lube and then use two small, sharp, flat blade screw drivers on opposing sides to work it up/out by using the carb body as the fulcrum?

There are some videos on YouTube showing how to remove the valve.

I believe the seal is on the end of the needle, and the seat in the carb is brass. Check the end of the float needle for wear; also check the string tip at the other end of the needle - if it doesn't have any "spring," then it can't press the rubber seal into the seat.

Last, as above, use a ball bearing to lightly "reshape" the brass seat inside of the carb body, if everything else checks out. However, for cost and hassle, I would probably just buy a new float needle before I start trying to modify anything inside the carb. It's likely less than $10 for a new needle, and with that common of a carb they have to be everywhere. Maybe try Sudco?

Mikuni ones look like this
http://www.frankmxparts.com/WebRoot/...mxparts-03.jpg

I used to buy spare o-rings as the old ones get flogged out. Still can't quite picture the lager pwk. Have one apart in garage but hangover prevents my will to go look at it.

Here's the PWK "Float Valve, complete:"
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2-AAA...T~k/s-l300.jpg

Keihin P/N 1062-814-2100, Sudco order number 018-504

Note the rubber tip which seats against the brass or alloy carb body. The rubber tip can get cut or damaged, or just worn out after time. And the spring tip can wear out or stick, which will allow leaking as well.

He needs to remove the brass seat not the needle. The brass seat is sealed to the aluminum carb body with an o-ring that has gone bad in his carb.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...x=0&ajaxhist=0

Ahh yes. That's what they look like. The 28s are direct into ally. That larger ones pressed in brass. Try the ball bearing and new tip needle but also have a real good look in there and back flush so any debris is ejected out the inlet. Hairs are particularly troublesome.