300 hard starting warm Having some carb issues.
I have a 2011 300 . All electrical is working fine.
I picked this bike up, left it in the basement for 2 months and then went to an enduro. I had a long day. Bike was pig rich. And Very hard to start warm. Like let it sit 10 minutes then start it. 35 f 20 % humidity Got home found 36mm ASII 6.5 Slide NOZH 3rd 40 Pilot 178 main Air screw No effect. FLoat 6.5 I lowered the float to 8mm. It seem to help starting but ran still to rich. No Power. A little bit of change with Air Screw I just installed a # 7 slide that is From My RB modded A.S.I It Runs Much better. Very Crisp. Will need g2 Throttle cam for tight single track. BUT""" Air Screw has no effect. Even with idle screw out. Idles great. If shut it off sometimes it starts good , sometime it takes 20 kicks Todays Weather 55 F 20 % humidity Ed |
Quote:
They all look farrrking phat for a 36mm carb. Bailey ran the NOZH in his 2010 300 at similar temps and elevations to myself (1000ft+ 90F high RH%) in a 38mm ASII - 42 NOZH#1 165. I remember thinking the main was super lean on his but it made great power from all reports and no mechanical issues. A 36mm will generally require leaner jets as there is a greater vacuum/pull of air and fuel through the carb throat. The NOZ is a 3 taper needle (same tapers as stock N1Ex) with a half clip leaner adjustment). Third taper generally means fat fuelling towards WOT so a smaller main than if you used a single/twin taper. Your bike is currently jetted very close to stock. 42 N1EF#2 175 40 NOZH#3 178 1 size leaner on the pilot, 2 sizes leaner on the needle diameter, half a clip richer on the needle, and a size richer on the main. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:28 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2009 - GasGasRider.org