I bet the guys at PG graphics could make a set up to fit the 10/11? They are very cool guys to work with.

Here's a few updates on mine since I got the top end back together. I have been in love with the Tubliss on the rear so I did one on the front. Also I did a pull type switch on the head light assembly like the KTM's. I kept hitting the bar mounted switch and turning the headlight on and off.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...45ccf39b83.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...ec4531e07c.jpg

Did you put the switch on the ground wire? To keep from running down my battery during trail working days, I simply disconnected mine, and would lots rather install a switch such as yours.

TIA,
Jim

Serviced the linkage and swingarm bearings, figured since the shock was out getting re-sprung and I never looked at them when I bought the bike I'd have a look. After 25 hrs I wasted my time looking, all the bearings were full of clean grease. What's more
Annoying is not only did they not need doing, two of the bearings spat the needle rollers out and I had to re-pack them, the locating nibs on most of the rollers has broken off. Clearly good quality needle rollers aren't used by the factory on assembly so ill plan on replacing them in the near future when I could be bothered.
Anyone have a bearing code for the '14
Linkage by any chance?

The bearing specs for the GasGas EC and FSE swingarm pivot and linkage has not changed since the original design in 1996. It is still the BE25614010.
In the past, before I got All Balls to produce their linkage and swingarm kits in 2002, I often used the rear linkage bearings from Kawasaki, for their '99 KX250. The rollers in those are "caged", as opposed to the "not caged" (which have more rollers but less room for grease). They worked well, and I liked the extra grease.

Good Riding!
Jim

Thanks for the tip.

Jim, I'm not sure how Gasgas does it. I would have to look at the schematic. I just unplugged the stock switch and plugged some spade connectors into the stock wires then ran it to the new switch. My lights only come on when the bike is running anyway (other than the tail light, but I'll probably change that for the same reasons you stated.)

My 2011 has the switch cluster (with the "round" light switch on the top), on the left side of the handlebars. The lights stayed on before I disconnected them.

I figure that if I interrupt the headlight's ground wire with a switch, I can shut off all the lights except the tail light (which isn't currently installed).
I have the pieces to go street legal, and paid sales tax and have a title, so it shouldn't be too hard in Arkansas.


.

I rode it, then washed it. Fiddled with the Lectron during the ride, it has a high RPM problem. Need to drop in a new plug and fresh gas to verify it's a carb or electrical issue. Ran well low RPM high and low load, but breaking up around 7400 RPM.

Started it & rode it for the first time since the start of the rebuild in June, stripped to the bare frame and back together again.....started 2nd kick.. :)