Changed title: Diagnosing no spark
 

I think my stator took a dump on me the first day of my bike being street legal. The bike ran like a banshee, made no unusual sounds and always started first kick. Took it to the gas station during lunch and had to push the bike back to work. I even tried starting fluid, which I don't like the idea of in a 2 stroke. So my conclusion, until I can test further is that there is no spark.

I imagine a 16 year old 35 watt stator running a 35 watt headlight, my taillights and generating spark for the engine was enough to push it over the edge. I see here a 50watt 6 pole generator for sale from these guys but would like to know what others have to say about them..

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...ng-Stator-Coil

Why not a Baja Designs rewind? Only $35 more, and it's a known entity when complete. They don't specifically address a gasser, but I would bet you could send it as a KTM and they would be none the wiser.

Edit: And you would get 130 watts.
http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDe...mNumber=126026

I think my quickest route to get the bike running is to guinea pig myself with these guys. Will dig into the bike looking for any shorts to the frame and get them to ship me a stator if I can't get a spark.

I think you conclusion is well premature and incorrect.

Back to basics, plug out, kick. Look for spark. Always change plug even if you do get spark.

The older bikes CDI required no DC power. I doubt they have gone to a DC CDI. The lighting coils are unrelated so a frontier lighting Cook won't help ignition.

No to say a charge coil or pulsar coil hasn't gone.

That's certainly the plan. Checking for spark this morning.

No spark, new stator. Not sure what the rest of what you said means, but in my limited experience the last time I had no spark on an RM 125, I put in an OEM stator and everything was magically better again.

F5 is correct. There are multiple windings on the stator. The largest one powers the CDI (all others are only for lighting and have nothing to do with making sparks). As long as the flywheel turns the CDI gets AC power. The bump on the flywheel triggers the pulser so the CDI knows when to fire.

It works like this:
1) single stator winding creates power for the CDI
2) pulser signals the CDI
3) CDI discharges through the ignition coil
4) voltage goes to the spark plug and jumps from the center electrode to ground
5) fuel combusts

The simplest thing that will stop the system is a ground problem in the ignition circuit. This means a bad kill switch or kill switch wire shorting out to the ground (frame/chassis).

The next thing is a bad connection somewhere (wire connection or gound connection). Check every wire in the ignition circuit and the coil mounting bolt.

Unscrew the plug cap from the coil wire. If the strands look dirty, trim the wire back a little and screw the cap back on.

I would unhook the Black/Red and Red/White stator wires that go the the CDI. They come from the single stator winding. Hook them to a multimeter set for AC voltage on a low scale. Kick the engine over; you should see the meter respond as the flywheel magnets pass by the winding. As long as it does something, that winding is probably OK.

After that you start changing parts (coil/pulser/CDI).

That is the current plan - I'm just preparing for the worst case scenario. I'm working on the bike based on good weather and natural light around a wonky schedule so having my bases covered means faster turn-around when I get it the time to tear into it.

I'm betting it's something simple - but will be ready for the worst.

Verified no spark from the plug. Will have to borrow a multimeter to test where it hooks to the ECU/CDI.

Wiring looks good. Removed killswitch.. So I'm thinking this will not be a free and easy repair.

So. . . . new plug? Plug cap? spare coil of any sort?

I pulled the plug cap off and shortened and screwed it back on. New plug. Don't have a spare coil to try. Pulled stator cover off, and noticed a bit of water(!) had accumulated as well as some corrosion. Pulling flywheel this evening to take a closer gander which won't tell me much, I just want to see how far this scale and rust has gotten.

Also noticed that kicking it no longer lights up the headlight as it used to - definitely suspecting stator.

I don't see any timing marks on the stator plate, are the screws just meant to be in the dead middle of their slotted holes?