2011 ec 300 stalling at low rpms with JD jet kit
 

hi guys.

2011 ec 300. brand new piston and rings. riding in victoria BC right now 20-25c at 0 to 1000 feet ASL.

Started out with the shitty stock needle N1EF with a 178 main and 42 pilot. it ran ok in cold weather. but still not great. always stalled out at low rpms.

I have a recluse clutch that may be affecting things

I got a JD jet kit. I installed as per their directions. 40 PJ 180 MJ and red needle at clip #4. the bike idles better and the idle screw and air mix screw actually do something now.

What hasnt changed is the fact that if i roll onto about 1/8 throttle then let off the gas as if to roll over a little bump the bike stalls.

If i open up the throttle and continue to WOT the bike runs great. but i ride tight single track and i need good strong low RPMS

Here are the combos of the JD jet kit that i have tried.
with 180 MJ and 40 PJ ive tried Red needle clip #4 JD recommended start
Blue needle clip #2
Blue needle clip #3
175 MJ 40 PJ Red#3 clip
Red#2 clip
i always start with the airscrew 1.5 out and go until 2.75 out.
None of these combos seem to make a difference as far as preventing stalling
the recluse seems to be set right bike tugs a tiny bit at idle in gear.

any advice? has anyone had this problem? i cant keep crashing my bike because of stalling at these rpms, shes really starting to take a beating :(

A good wrench i know has suggested that i push my clutch pack apart further with the slave cylinder on my rekluse.

ill try that and update

No luck with recluse adjustment

Also tried 178 mj 38 pj red clip 4. Exact same

Try a 42 pilot and increase your idle speed by turning in the stop screw.

I am no expert but I was told that the needle does not do anything at low speed but the main do ..I would try 38 or 35 .or your clutch need adjustment ..try again but hold the clutch handle to see if it die .cheer

I have tried the 42. no real change except the idle screw doesnt really work.
The bike has kind of a 2 step idle. idles really high until i put it in gear and let clutch out. then it pulls a tiny bit like it should. ive tried adjusting the clutch screw from all the way in to all they way out. it just changes the rpms that the clutch engages at but doesnt change my problem.

getting pretty frustrated at this point. :(

here is what i was told
"At 1/4 throttle the main is not in use, the main jet usually kicks in at 1/2 (half throttle). So if you want to go leaner at 1/4 you have to play with the idle jet and needle (the needle barely is in play at 1/4 if at all).

However even if you go a tad leaner on the idle jet (let's say a 38, witch i am using in the summer with the JD kit even tough they recommend the 40) i don't think there will be a noticeable increase in mpg."

here are my setting now
450 ft elevation
blue needlle-- second clip
175 jet (i dont have 172 on my kit as i have (165--170--175--180)
38 jet
1.25 turn
seem to run good at slow speed
cheer

Are you riding a 300?

1/8th throttle isn't much to be rolling back from.

The high idle in neutral and the low idle in gear tells me you have quite a bit of clutch drag.. This will likely be the cause of the stalling.

Did the basket have any notching in the fingers? Can you set the recluse up to slip a bit more?

I've always aimed for to set my engines up to idle smoothly, but low in neutral (at operating temp). This tends to mean that it won't idle forever in gear with the added drag. It doesn't worry me as I don't have any expectation to idle in gear for extended periods.

Jetting wise, start with a clean carb and clear jets. Set the float to spec + 0.5-1.0mm more for the angle the carb sits in the chassis (it should overflow if tilted to the side just past 45 degrees). Set the slide nice and low to ensure you aren't pulling over and sucking too much air (helps get a consistent idle and easy starting). I start with a recommended setup. Adjust clip position for 1/4-1/2 throttle response. IMO most noticeable effect of the needle is right around 1/4 throttle. Adjust pilot using air screw to find where she starts and idles. Move to the main last and taper down to where you come from being a bit rich to strong.

The hard part is the off idle response. You have needle diameter/straight section, slide cutaway (notched/not), air screw, pilot jet, and float height all impacting on the balance.

If you have a poor vacuum signal or excessive squish clearance which can cause inconsistencies and you can chase yourself around in circles for eternity. Ask me how I know!