air screw doesnt afected RPM
 

Hi,

curently run my ec300 2011 with stock setup:

n1ef#2 (i change from 1 to 2 just for testing)

p40

main 175

carb 38 with two screw on the top.

15 degree C and about 200m

I decided to play with the carb as i noticed that the bike is dinging during the riding in very slow up hill and tecnichal area.( my favorite place)


looking for linear and smoth power for tecnichal riding.

turning the AS all the way in will shut down the engine, but as i pull out the screw the engine is live but there is no any diffrence between one or two or three or four out .

why the AS doesnt make a change?

where should i need to satrt?

Where is the idle screw set?? Is it wound right in binding the spring up against the carb body? I'm guessing it is. Essentially this lifts the slide so far up that you are bypassing the pilot circuit which is why it has very little effect.

Many have found this issue with the stock needle and have had better results using others. Check the jetting section. Basically a leaner needle diameter with a bigger pilot will allow you to drop the slide and bring the pilot into effect.

currently i leave it 1.5 out.

but even 2,3,4 out doesnt make change.

so i how to start from this point?

why you think i need to lean?

during hard enduro riding ( first gear and clutch) the bike is increase RPM a while like a dinging...

I'm not talking about making it leaner at idle. I'm saying if you're right in on the idle screw that the pilot circuit is out of effect. Usually if you're too rich on the needle diameter you need to lift the slide to let more air in to get the right mixture. The ding/pipe bang can also be caused by a rich condition when the bike is hot and an unburnt fuel charge (excess fuel) is ignited in the pipe. Use the search engine a bit. Pretty common topic ;)

Thanks
 

Never had it put that way: clears up a couple things in my mind

Thanks!!

Just try the needle on the top clip and ensure the idle screw is low (as per Jakobi) and the start the air screw at 1 1/2.

I have found this the best jetting for a 2011 EC300 with the 38mm carb and the stock 0.5mm base gasket. I ride at similar alt and temps. It is almost unstallable and linear in power.

The needle jet bore is a fixed diameter. You need a needle with a large shank diameter so less fuel passes by the needle at slow speed. This will make the pilot circuit more effective.

As the air screw is turned out (leaner) the revs increase. The farther out you have the air screw the better, because now you can drop the slide to get the correct idle speed. Thus the throttle has to open more before the needle taper adds fuel.

The engine will run much crisper off idle and slow speed riding will be improved.

N1EF is often too rich even with the clip in the top groove.

Exactly what I was saying, just explained in some more depth.

Once the pilot circuit is dialled in a clip position change, or change to another needle (with the same diameter) shouldn't have any real effect on the idle. If a clip pos change has a big effect on idle speed/off idle response its likely you have the slide raised too far and are pulling over/bypassing idle circuit.

Keg is right that the N1EF will somewhat work in the top clip position. I ran like this for a while but experienced a few symptoms. Idle screw right in causing a low inconsistant idle. Heaps of smoke and spooge even when up to temp. In single trail it would begin to load up the plug and need to be frequently cleared out, and fuel consumption was out of control.

I previously ran the N1EG (leaner in the straight section) on earlier gassers but the 2011 seems to like the N1EF.

Thannks guys,
I thought that need to change the pilot jet when the air screw isn?t affecting.

Anyway, I will follow after your advice to lean the needle.

Under those condition can I have recommendation for the rquired needle instead of the N1EF?