Airbox to Carb Boot wont fit on
 

Hey,

Picked up a Project bike that was dismantled.
Rebuilt engine and I'm putting it back together but cant for the life of me get the airbox boot onto the back of the Carb.

Is there a trick to this...

What am I missing?

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/p...psybuorlls.jpg

Hey Stuberg!

Some of them ran a spacer plate behind between the cases and reed block to increase crank case volume. Often people would remove them, and then you end up with a little discrepancy in fit. Couple that with old airboots shrinking and the plastic hardening and you can have the issues you see.

A bit of heat, either from a heat gun, or a bucket of hot water and you can get the boot to soften and stretch a little. Once back in place she sets up a bit again.

Def slow heat works well on old rubber. Then try work the carb into the airbox, usually have to undo the subframe and work it in, then do up the clamps. Then lower it down to fit the carb finally into the inlet manifold before putting the subframe bolts back in. .

Thanks guys,

There is still the spacer between manifold and Reed block which is good.

I'll pull out the heat gun and give it a shot. The airbox rubber is very hard so didn't want to push it too much.

Thanks heaps!

Stu

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Buy a new boot.
The rubber will eventually split.

This is what I have been doing.

1. Warm up the rubber boot.
2. Insert the carb into the boot.
2. Tighten the clamp.
3. Heat up the boot behind the clamp.
4. Then you can pull the carb into the reed cage coupling and tighten the clamp.

If you end up needing to replace it Stu, let me know. I think I have a spare one here. BE250128017

Okay, will do. Thanks mate

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When you tighten the clamp at the junction of the carb and the intake boot to the reed cage, be careful not to over-tighten the clamp.
There is enough leverage in the clamp to distort the round rubber boot if over-tightened. This can cause the carb to separate from the boot under a hard shock. (cased landings, etc.)
I witnessed this happening to a customer's bike three times during a hare scramble, and upon inspection of the fellow's bike, found this problem. (The jump was right in front of my son's pit stop. Every time the carb & boot came apart after this one big jump, the rider's dad would put it back on and tighten it harder, which made it come apart even easier.)
I tightened it correctly, and it stayed on for the rest of the race.

I always put the intake boot onto the carb first, so I can put a finger inside and stop right before the clamp is tight enough to distort. Then, I connect it to the reed cage.

Good wrenching to you!
Jim


.

I have a 2004 EC300 and my airbox boot has gone hard (I guess it's the original) making it difficult to fit the carb.

I will get round to buying a replacement but in the meantime this is my way around it:

1. I fit the carb into the airbox boot and tighten the jubilee clip.
2. Next I line up the carb with the rubber tube on the reed valve block, then gently lever the carb forwards until it sits nicely inside the rubber tube, holding it there whilst I tighten the jubilee clip.

To lever it forwards I use a short piece of wood, but it doesn't require much force, I only need to lever it forward very gently.

If you have to use too much force you could damage the carb, in that case best to just buy a nice new, flexible rubber boot.

All the best, Dave.