New Clutch and Terrible drag
 

After running my OEM clutch for about 350-400hrs i decided after the last extreme event i entered that it was probably time to replace the clutch. the squeel seemed to be getting worse on the long tech climbs. Other than sqeal (on the really bad stuff) i had no other problems.

The supplier her sold me an aftermarket set of fibres and plates. I did not measure them up to compare old and new stacks, but they looked very similar although the steels had little dimples pressed into them (the originals may have had these as well when new but not now)

Soaked the plates for a few hours and then fitted them the same as the originals (fibres inside and outside and steels with the sharp side in)
Went for a ride yesterday and no squealing anymore but the clutch drag is so bad that in the carpark before riding i could ride around with the clutch pulled all the way in. It did improve a little out on the ride but is not ideal, on climbs it would tend to stall when i pulled in the clutch and on descents it would pull me forward when i pulled in the clutch. Tried adjusting the lever but it basically just changes the point of grab

So not sure what to do now. do clutches take a while to smooth out? I use bellray gearsaver oil as i found it best and have been using it since i got the bike new

The clutch was bled about 2 rides before the change

I know you've got plenty of experience, but sometimes it's the simple things that cause our problems. Having said that; Did you check for wear on the basket & inner hub? After 400 hours, that seems like a good place to look.

Those nice new steel plates could be hanging up on little notches worn in the hub and likewise fiber plates could be hanging up on little ridges worn in the basket.

RB

It's the first clutch i have ever replaced, so no experience here.

I did look at the basket and hub and I could feel some wear but it didn't feel like very much, not sure how much is too much though.

I did increase the oil from 0.9 to 1l when i put the newer clutch cover on to compensate fro the added volume. On reading the web it seems this may play a part so i will go back to 0.9 and see if there is any difference

On my '01 XC 200, I found a full L to be too much. .9 L might be pushing it, imo.

You may have wear on the ends of the clutch push rod. You've gone from a thin worn stack to a new thicker stack and the worn push rod may not be long enough.

If you installed all the plates "sharp edge inward" that should allow them to slide outward smoothly and disengage OK. As mentioned, notches in the hub and basket can mess you up too.

It might be worth trying ATF (or an ATF/oil blend) to see if it helps.

The local dealer thinks there may still be some bleeding required on the clutch - they have not had any issues with the clutch packs before so do not believe it is from that. . IM going to open it up again and see how much movement I get on the pressure plate. Anyone know how much I should get?

I will also look at trying to suck out a 100ml and see if that helps

I have looked at some videos of grooved baskets and mine was nowhere near those. Mine look more like polished in patches. I will try to take a pic

I suspect i have the solution. I fitted a 2013 clutch cover to my bike when i still had the old clutch pack. the 2013 cover has a little spout to direct oil back to the centre of the clutch. i assume the 2013 clutch has a hole to accommodate this but the 2010 does not so i had to grind this down to fit, i suspect that withthe thicker clutch pack the pressure plate may be making contact with this spout and i may need to grind it down a bit more.

It is because the cover is slightly wider than the 2010 cover that i have been adding an additional 0.1l oil.

I will give some feedback on the outcome.

Update??

yep, it was the 2013 cover. I had ground the "spout" down for the old pack, but it was making contact with the new one. I have gone back to the old one and it is fine, although it tends to drag when it gets hot (but it doesn't squeal!)