'12 Shroud Fix
 

OK, its done and turned out good IMO. As good as it gets with the current plastic. Cheap and easy too. The use of the Scorpion frames (excellent product) allows a third mounting point for the upper shroud section, which takes the stress off the shroud connection point. For now I did not change this. The nice thing about mounting plastic with the vibration isolators is that it can now flex significantly on an impact, and does not tear and break immediately. Also, note that the radiator is now completely isolated from the shroud. I can grab the front of the shrouds and yank them around and nothing pops apart. This can be done with or without the rad frames (two mounts only then) and even with the louvers notched for the posts if desired, but IMO this bike really needs rad frames. Part list to follow if any interest.

The vibration isolators are a good solution. You cut off the stock plastic barbed pins and drilled the holes there? I have forgotten what the stock mounting was like since I don't run shrouds on my bike (Clarke tank).

Yes, exactly. On the '12 plastic, these are so thin its a joke. Mere seconds with a razor blade and they were off flush. The '07 plastic was much thicker and robust, hopefully the '13 stuff will be as well.

I would be interested in a parts list.
Thanks
Harold

Good work Glenn, Very neat fix.
Cheers Mark

Good mod.
Do you think dzus fasteners would work, for a cleaner look?

With the help of my new-found friends in WY, we came up with a similar fix. We just drilled a hole and bolted the shroud into the Unabiker radiator guard support post.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...2/8e364e55.jpg

Looks like it should work fine. I am very keen to see if the 13 graphics fit with the 12 bikes or if we would have to buy new stickers aswell? Maybe they Will do us a great deal to replace our current shroud? Either way i am keen to see the new plastics.

Thanks guys. I'm not a fan of Dzus fasteners, every experience on a KTM or GG (airbox) has been poor and replaced with a bolt eventually. Plus, the isolators have an M6 female thread. Stainless buttonheads are reliable, and the way the isolators are molded, the bolt threads contact the rubber somewhat, so no loctite needed.

Sure, you can bolt the shroud directly to the rad frame in a number of places, and that is a good field fix. The thickness of the OEM standoffs where they come off the back of the shroud is little more than mold flashing, and I can't see them surviving long. I tried to keep the same geometry/look and add resilience. The slight tension of the isolators actually tends to pull and tuck the shroud leading edges in slightly, which is good. What else I found, is that to remove the tank, all you now need to do is remove the three screws on each side up top. The tension will pull the shroud clear of the tank. its in one of the pics.

nato,

My bike came with a complete second set of "XC" graphics in a bag, so hopefully new plastic will be the same pattern. The plastic needs to be a little thicker IMO in addition to the connection point change. I'd like to see a complete redesign of the mounting but don't expect it, so I'm figuring on doing what I just did anyway. FWIW, my '07 has the original shrouds mounted like this.