Did you preoil or lube the main cases gasket or did you install it dry?

30hrs after my rebuild, using preoiled gasket, my cases seep gear oil in the upper area, below carb.

I was told to always preoil the gaskets, that seal oil, and haven't had problems till now.


Also, checking prices for seals and bearings, it's insane. I can overhaul whole engine at the cost of $70, shoping locally, as all parts are standard sizes.
Using original parts would also be much cheaper than prices you got, but its probably US EU thing going on.

The crank's roller bearing, I believe on the clutch side, is about 65 dollars alone when I last checked prices. That was on Amazon, then I checked a local bearing place and it was even higher.

As long as everything isn't dry it's all good really, assembly oil, light grease or whatever, it'll burn off once you give it a rev anyway

awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!

Apologies on the late reply, I just saw the question.

I used a very small amount (a couple dabs) of assembly lube, just to help keep the gasket in place. I added no additional sealant. The factory manual does specify use of a lube.

x2 on the crank bearings. They are very pricey. If someone can do a whole engine for $70, I'd be interested to know what type of bearings they used. That is an insanely low price.

I have rebuilt about 8 GG engines. I used stock parts for the first one and paid through the nose for the parts. For the next 7, I switched to sourcing them by bearing and seal number. I sourced the bearings by a number of places and spent considerable time getting good prices and in my opinion, if you are using name brand quality bearings and seals you can not get all of them to fully rebuild the bottom end for $70.

RockerfellerGG, thanks for taking the time to post this thread, it's very helpful.
I just tore my '01 XC 200 down for a bad crank bearing and had my old mini laptop sitting right on the workbench so I could use your thread for quick reference.

Yeah, there are some differences, but still, it was very helpful.

Here's a tip for heating the cases when changing bearings (Especially for those of us who have wives that frown on us putting engine cases in the oven:))

I fired up the gas grille, spread out a sheet of aluminum foil over the grills and laid the cases on the foil. Heated the cases up to 175-180 F in no time. I checked temp by sticking a meat thermometer in a bolt hole closest to the bearing hole in question.

Meanwhile, the bearings were in a freezer that was at an indicated 8 below 0 F.

The bearings practically fell in place.

RB

I hope replying is not jacking the thread too much, but helping to buy cheaper in future is a good investment. ;)

I made a rough estimate of $70. But took a liberty of calling a supplyer today for price quote, since I overhauled mine in december '15, some parts got a tad more expensive since, but I did undershoot a bit, for which I apologize.

Two viton seals off UK ebay, got better value than local specialized stores.
seal1
seal 2
They are fully viton with metal cage moulded inside, rather than outer metal ring with only sealing lip being viton.

2 main bearings 6206 C4, 63/28 C3 (23.67? both), 2 viton seals, combined shipping (16.86?)
4 shaft bearings 6203 x 2, 6205, 6305 (19.6? all 4)
2 drum bearing HK 3512, HK 2512 (12.24? both)
3 outer seals 2-3? each
a few small bearings for PV and WP 3? each
EDIT: ? = EUR

All SKF, NTN, INA (FAG) in correct clearances. No China products.

This goes for '08 and later engines, which use left side ball rather than the expensive roller bearing, which is $45 in itself.

All combined and converted to $ totaled in 97,4 USD for full engine seals and bearings.
With the roller bearing used in '07, it would total $132.

Thank you for the follow up. Those prices look closer to what I recall spending last time I did the job.

Well, Photobucket stopped allowing 3rd party linking of images unless I pay $400/year.

In the next week or so, I'll work on finding a new image host.