Quote:
Originally Posted by earlystock
Not to bring up an old thread but I run only non oring on my dirt bikes. It is true that a oring keeps the dirt out to a degree, but it also hold dirt in. If you take a old oring chain apart you will find nasty, gritty, friction holding crud inside. And as far as a non oring getting stiffer it is because you are not lubing and cleaning very well.
I take my chain off every 2-300 miles and soak it in some solvent over night to get all the crud out of the links, then put it in a old coffee can full of 20w-50 oil and heat it on top of my shops wood stove for as long as I'm in the shop. The most important part is to let it cool in the oil so it don't run out of the link and the chain will be as limber as it was when new if not even better. I have tried sealing it with some of the spray wax chain lube, but I didn't think it helped much, so I just oil it every ride with PB Blaster and have yet to have a seized link.
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I only run oring chains & haven't ever had the need to do what you're suggesting........ and that's with the worst kinds of crap that can be thrown at them; Mud, water, sand, grit, mud, snow, dirt, rocks, more mud, you name it(Hey, it's Ontario....).
I wash my bike with a garden hose only(and a dirt release agent), then give the chain a squirt of WD-40 after washing is done. I can easily get 200+ hours out of a chain, but it's the sprockets that usually are gone by 150-175hrs, so the chain goes with them.
I don't waste money on fancy lubes, waxes, oil soaks, or what not, as I don't find they offer any net benefit. All the money I save by not buying all that crap pays for the next chain.
Power washers are probably the worst thing you can allow near a dirtbike & are probably the reason most o-ring chains die young.
Non o-ring chains are only useful in sealed oil-bath chaincases, like on a snowmobile.