Quote:
Originally Posted by Noel
I have a under-bar setup and had to adjust the height of the "as you call it the silver rod" using the black adjustment assembly,the "silver rod" has never slipped
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Thanks Noel I will give it a shot and see if it slips or not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMP
lordfeyr,
I hate to say this but I suspect that setup will cause you problems for two reasons.
First, that is the old style tower clamp, its actually a YZ part that happens to fit the GasGas steering head, but the clamp area is inadequate IMO. It slips and moves. You can't tighten it enough due to the thin cross section and M5 hardware. I broke two of these from fatigue failure.
Second, those bar risers greatly aggrevate the situation, making the tower taller and placing a lot more leverage on it. You also have to be sure that the pin has enough bearing area in the tower itself, and seeing how far it is adjusted I doubt this.
BRP/Scotts has a secong gen GasGas specific tower that is better, but not perfect either. It clamps tight enough and does not slip but I have bent two of them from the forces of the high speed ckt in the damper tripping on rock hit deflections.
In an attempt to cure this, I went to a submount and shortened the tower, for increased rigidity and strength. I HATED the tall bar position, so I went back to a top mount with my own design tower.
The problem with the GG tower design is its based on the standard damper arm offset (distance from center). This does not allow for a full length post of adequate strength. Look at both towers and you'll see what I mean. I designed and had made what I call my "long arm tower". Its based on a damper arm with a +10mm offset. This allows a much stiffer 15mm OD post on a larger, thicker base welded to the clamp ring. It has completely solved my problems and does not slip or flex at all.
Since this is likely more than you want to do, the next best thing would be to get the newer BRP tower, and weld a stiffener section on the rear side.
FYI, to use the OEM vent in the frame, get a 90 deg M6 grease fiitting and drill out the end to remove the ball and spring. I use this for my trans PV vent.
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Thanks for your respose. Do you have a pic of how you did the 90 to vent at the frame? Never knew that could be done...
Im going to take the parts to a buddy house and ask him to machine a new arm that will go all the way through the bracket. Right now the bottom of the silver post is flush with the edge of the clamp. I figure if it can be made about 1 inch longer and stepped to keep it from sliding down or up that should help a bunch. Also stepping it would allow a bit thicker of a rod to keep it from bending.
As for the clamp... I might just throw a couple tack welds to hold it in place. Those allen bolts on the clamp definately seemd kinda small.