Quote:
Originally Posted by cdn280
Seeing as this post hasn't died yet, the above statement still has me thinking. Ricardo has said that the needle is still in its closed part of the taper so you are really only adjusting the idle speed only the way its supposed to work by opening the slide slightly. So there is no spending involved unless you want to pay someone like RB.
I've got the tach working on mine and the best idle to prevent stalling on steep downhills and during long idling periods seems to be about 1900rpm. What are others finding. And although the main jet only marginally affects the zero to 1/8 throttle mixture, I recently went from a 178 to a 175 main and it idles a lot better and longer at 500-3000ft. I'm going to try the next leaner pilot as soon as I find out what I have in there again.
Mine is a 2006 EC300
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I know from experience that having it near coil bind on the idle screw that my air screw had very little effect. This makes sense to me - because an increased amount air and fuel is coming via the slide/needle that the relative contribution of the pilot circuit is now much less.
Going with LTR jetting (my bike was the bike used for creating the jetting kit) - the idle screw was further out and I could go a 1/4 turn on the air screw to adjust for cold temps in the morning, etc. There is a range of settings where this carb is designed to operate - I think that cutting the spring and going in further on the idle screw will make the idle circuit even less sensitive - you will lose the ability to do any fine tuning via the air screw.
The LTR jetting kit allows you to turn down the idle screw and you get better pilot circuit sensitivity (which this carb needs). In talking to Ron at RB-Designs - he takes it several steps further, modifying the carb itself to increase pilot circuit sensitivity.
If you go up 4500 feet in altitude from 1000 feet - and it starts to blubber off the bottom a little, don't you want to be able to just turn the air screw a little and have it purr like a kitten off the bottom? Seems to me that if you are cutting the spring and turning in the idle screw further you will be moving in the opposite direction. It may work fine - but I think you should be aware of what you are sacrificing along the way...
jeff