[swazi_matt]

this is what i have used successfully and there is theory in it that makes sense - cannot remember the source (but honestly i had to find something that saved me from the horror of having to ride two tanks below powerband;-))


1st. Idling a bike for a long time is WRONG!!!!! When any motor, 2 or 4 stroke idles, it generates very low oil pressure. This increases friction inside the motor. On two stroke motors, where you have an auto lube system, when you idle the bike, there is very little airflow, and it creates a poor mix between the oil and the fuel. The oil runs along the bottom on the intake, and into the crank area, and very little gets to the piston and rings, again, causing additional friction. The longer you leave the motor idling, the more those rings and sleeve wear, simply because there is no oil lubricating it. The problem is less on 4 strokes, but a motor idling around 1500 RPM or lower, does not generate the correct oil pressure. Meaning, all the moving parts can be affected. It also takes a longer time for the oil to reach all the right places, especially if it has been standing for a while
Then on top of that, when the motor is cold, the combustion process creates acids that collect inside the motor. These acids eat away slowly at the metal and you know what happens with metal and acids.
Also, a bike that stands still, has no air flowing over the motor, cooling it down, and over time, heat will build up. The cooling system has a fan and all the rest, but the motor was not designed to idle like this, it is there to be ridden, and the air flowing over the motor actually does a big part in helping it to stay cool. The cooling system and water only cools around the sleeve, and the head, and the rest of the motor relies on air cooling.
Also, extensive carbon is being built up during the idling process, because the fuel is not burned correctly. The carbon collects inside the combustion chamber, on top of the piston and inside the exhaust. This will affect performance over time.
Then, at idle, unburned fuel can collect on the side of the sleeve, where it dilutes the oil used to lubricate the parts. Also, ring seal is poor during idle, and fuel and combustion gasses gets past the rings, and ends up inside the oil, where it starts breaking it down, and reducing the oils efficiency to lubricate the parts.
So, if you really want to mess up a good motor, go ahead, idle that sucker. I get really upset about the misinformation people feed clients, and they don?t think what the impact is of what they tell people.
So, what do you do?
You cannot ride a cold bike and give it horns.. The correct way is to start the bike, open the throttle lightly, to give the bike a bit of RPM, to get the oil pressure up, and to get the oil circulating around the motor as soon as possible. You can also turn the idle screw, to up the RPM?s to around 2000 to 2500 RPM for about 15 to 20 seconds. Once done, set the idle back to normal and as soon as possible, start riding it. Ride it slowly, and keep the throttle under ?, and if you have a rev counter try not to go over 3500 to 4000 RPM. Take it slow, and don?t give it full throttle. Ride around in the parking area if you must, but ride the thing slowly, and don?t labour the motor.
What this does, is help the motor to warm up much quicker, which limits the acid and the additional carbon build up. Fuel mixture is better, which creates a cleaner burn, and oil pressure is also at optimum, so it lubricates the motor much better. With two stroke motor, you also have a better mix of oil and fuel, so the parts get the right amount of oil they need. Also, your cooling is better, since you have airflow over the motor
You can start your ride like this, and about 5 min later, you can let rip.
Now. 2nd part to running in the motor.
A lot of people say take it easy, and don?t give it full throttle, and all this cool down nocence.
Let me again explain a few things. 1st the cool down. They claim that the cool down period is required to temper the metal rings. Metal gets harder when you temper it, so it sounds like a good plan. Well, the real facts are that you cannot temper metal inside a motor. When you get new rings, they are already treated by the manufacturer. Also, to temper metal you need to make that peace of metal red or white hot. Now, by the time you generate that about of heat inside the motor, the aluminium piston and head would have melted a long time ago, and the sleeve and rings would basically start to fuse together.
Now if you want to go by that stupid idea, there is a way to do this, and create the right amount of heat to warm up the metal to such a degree that you can start change it?s strength. To do this, drain all the oil and water out the motor, and go ride the bike like that. Once you get a light heat seize, you just about reached the right temperature to start tempering the metal. Well, I would not advise this practise, but that is actually what you need to do to temper metal, using your bikes motor.
The only time you would need to cool the motor, is when you run in the bike, on a dyno, where there is no additional airflow, like you would have while riding your bike. While you ride, the cooling system and air will take care of the rest. You can also stop for brief moments, to let the motor cool, but a 5 min stop is fine. No need to let it cool down to room temperature. The theory behind a quick stop, is to let the new rings cool down a bit, and to give you a chance to check the oil and water levels, and look for oil leaks. Once or twice is fine for a quick stop.