And at the risk of getting "too far into it", I really like this post on how to select the right shock spring.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...hlight=preload
The idea is that you only want 8-9mm of preload on the spring. If I understand it right, when you add a bunch of preload to get the correct sag, you are also creating a stiffer situation in the initial part of the stroke with no benefit overall. If the sag isn't right, get a different spring (vs. cranking up the preload).
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From the post:
"The main thing is the preload and the beginning of shock/wheel travel, how easy it is for the wheel to respond to small hits, and how fast the wheel is rebounding from those hits. This has the most effect on how the bike sucks up trail trash. If your spring is too light steering may suffer, and jacking the preload to correct it is the whole point of this thread. Keep in mind that the basic shock valving must be sound for your spring/weight/speed/terrain so you don't attempt to over compensate somewhere else. I'm running.44/5.4 combo and I'm 190 lbs. 1mm preload on the fork springs, around 9-9.5mm on the shock...
Another thing. Don't soften up the fork in an attempt to get rid of the harsh mid spike in certain conditions. This will pitch the bike foward and make the shock feel worse. Solve the real problem (rebound) discussed in the other thread, and things will start falling into place nicely."
"But, what we are discussing here is primarily how less preload provides a more comfortable ride. A bit more static sag will always provide a plusher ride in the initial part of the stroke than a spring that has been screwed down to be stiffer."
"The whole thing is a bit of a catch 22. The right spring will give you the right figures. You may be borderline where you can either run with more preload, or go up a rate and run less. In this case I'd go for less preload and a heavier spring."