It is nice if the forks and shock move the same amount when you bounce, but the folks will generally have more friction so sometimes don't move as well unless the seals are greased and the bushings are in good shape and the oil is fresh. Mobile 1 AFT seems to produce less seal friction and is a good choice for these forks.
Make sure that your bushings are not worn when you take the forks apart and replace them and the oil seals when you can.
Your forks have 10 face shims on the base valve. That is way too many. Most people only use 3 or 4 for off road.
The reason your rebound control is ineffective is that:
1. the rebound shim stack usually doesn't have enough shims (add shims as identified below)
2. there is a bleed hole drilled in the rebound piston (leave it alone for now)
3. usually there is a bleed shim on the face of the rebound stack (remove it)
The base valve piston also has a bleed hole. You can leave it alone for now.
I suggest you try something like these stacks (credit to Motosportz, Kyle Tarry & GMP at CafeHusky):
If you don't have these exact shim sizes, just use what you have to get close. It is bound to be better than what you have.
Base Valve:
22.1 (3x)
14.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
Midvalve assembly (rebound stack on top with midvalve stack below piston):
<nut>
15.1
17.1
18.1
19.1 (2x)
22.1 (2x)
<piston>
22.1 (2x)
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
18.1
Float is about 1mm with this midvalve setup
I implemented these stacks on my forks this week and am going to try 130 mm air gap using Mobile 1 ATF (7.5 wt). I'll ride it this weekend.
If your midvalve nut has never been removed it will be difficult to remove the first time since the midvalve shaft threads have been peened to prevent the nut from backing off. Mine had already been taken apart, so I am not familiar with how to get the nut off in the first place.
Look up that procedure and be careful and take it slow. You don't want to twist off the end of this rod since that will disable both the midvalve compression and the rebound functions.