Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi
Exactly! The crank case drain is just a hole through the bottom of the cases into the crank case. It's very helpful if the bike gets drowned and filled with water. I've had mine flow like a tap before 
If all is as it should be you should only have a small pool of 2T oil pooled in the crank cases, and if the engine has been turned over a few times it should be coating your big end and crank more than running out the drain when you remove the plug. If you are getting water into the crank case you'll see the oil has emulsified and gone creamy like.
I also agree with barossi regarding the pipe smouldering. If I transition from a day in the singles to doing some 5th - 6th wide open I can get enough heat into it to burn off the excess oil. I've also run lean enough to have the bikes power curve dropping flat under load and not had any smoke from the pipe. A lean setup can also cause that too.
In relation to the crank case seal on the rhs, it doesn't really explain why the bike would run poorly in the morning and OK in the afternoon. I would replace this seal and o-ring if you dig deep enough to get to clutch and PV governor. Cases do not need to be split, but the RHS engine case/cover does need to be removed and can be done with the bike laid over on its side. If you are losing significant volumes of oil you can measure what comes out vs what goes in with the transmission oil. If it's being burnt off you'll have the rich smokey condition and poor running along with less trans oil coming out when changing it. I always pour the old oil back into a 1L bottle for a quick crude check.
While a bike shouldn't run with the bung plug in, I must say I have done this too. Bike has fired up a-ok but it's immediately noticeable that the exhaust isn't flowing and I'm sure if you tried to keep it running long enough it would flame out/load up. We've used the method to snuff a husky WR300 that had its kill switch disconnected due to it shorting.
Have you changed filter oil recently? or started over oiling the filters? It's hard to tell by reading if you are saying that the engine just won't rev and is running poorly like it's over fuelling/loading up, or if its mechanically not opening the PV. When my PV stuck wide open the engine truly sounded like a bucket of bolts - not just didn't sound right - it sounded fatal. |
Air filter and oil were replaced aprox. 15 hours engine time. Yes the air filter might be over oiled. And yes again, when i say it sounds bad regarding the PV, it's just as you described but only from the point where the PV should open, up until then it sounds and runs fine.
I think it's time to clean the PV and exhaust ports, while i'm at it i'll order new crank seals and change the one on the RHS if you say i won't need to split the cases open. It will take a while tough before i'll be able to post any updates and/or ride the bike to see if it fixed the issue (the seals will take at least 1 week to get here).
p.s. engine oil that is in the bike is motorex, i only used to put in motul but they didn't had any on stock at the time witch might explain the squeaky clutch when the engine is very hot and i start from a stand still