hi Folks,
Finally got around the riding the bike again after removing 2 shims from LS in each side and dropped the oil level to 120mm.
Felt similar and hands still sore after a short period of time.
Fully stripped them this weekend and checked a few things.
Forks were rebuilt 6hrs ago with fresh oil bushings and seals.
Everything looked good inside except the oil which was very metallic.
Made quite a few changes hopefully to give me a workable base line.
Compression should now be noticeably different (for info piston has no bleed).
WAS,23,23,23,23,23,23,23,23,23,23, 11 ,22,22,22,22,21,20,18,17,16,15,14,13,12,12
IS, 23,23,22,18,15,14, 11 ,23,22,21,20,19,17,16,13,12,12
Found the standard rebound stack to be
Check valve,Piston,22,12,19,17,15,12. Rebound piston has a tiny bleed hole ~1mm.
New stack to try and get the adjuster working
Check valve,Piston,22,22,12,22,19,17,15,12
Im aiming for compliance over rocks and roots typical of Irish forest enduros. Would it be best to stick with the check valve or a mid valve arrangement? Max speed in rough ground likely to be middle revs in 3rd. Im not fast lol
Is the "Float" the amount the check valve on rebound side can open? I think we checked it around 1.5mm.
We suspect the metallic oil could be the damper rod deffo does not appear to be coated. Cleaned it well and gave it a light rub with polish and rag was black, seems like raw Alu, would be very easy to mirror polish as most of it already is!
Also found what I assume is a type of bottom out valve assy, not adjustable but must be removed to get the damper rod out.
Pic attached.
Cheers
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