Now the bladder has been removed, move over to the shock shaft, use force to push the seal head down into the body exposing the circlip (removing the bladder should have already sucked it down into the body a bit). Remove the circlip and then gently work the seal head followed by piston up and out of the shock body, leaving you with the body and reservoir with oil inside:
Dump the oil, clean it up and hang it up to dry. Whilst not necessary you may choose to remove the compression adjuster assembly and clean it up too. A shifter on the 'nut' just behind the adjuster knob makes short work of this. Again not necessary for a service, or any reason really as its non adjustable and doesn't have a shim stack for HSC that can be altered like some other brands of shock. The adjuster can be pulled down further by clamping the silver end of the adjuster in soft jaws and then using a shifter on the 'nut' to undo it. Be mindful to have the adjuster wound all the way out (soft) when disassembling and be wary of the spring (see parts diagram):
Clamp the clevis/shaft into a vice revealing the piston and shim stack. No point in undoing the 19mm nut and removing this unless you plan on re-valving, in which case remember when re-assembling that the smaller holes (rebound valve ports) face up.
I didn't pull the shock down any further - it is possible to split the shaft from the clevis and access the rebound clicker assembly but I didn't see the need. I've had this shock re-valved by a tuner here in Australia who is a big advocate of race tech rebound separator valves and he commented this shock doesn't need one after looking at it, so thats good enough for me, and in any case there is no need to pull the shock down this far for a revalve or service.
To re-assemble its almost the reverse procedure, but I'm not going to write it up as there are plenty of good youtube videos on how to re-assemble and hand bleed a bladder shock.
One final word of warning, don't over tighten the bleed port screw situated on the top of the shock body on the opposite side of the shock body to the reservoir, it compresses against a rubber o-ring and when over-tightened you won't get it undone again without stripping the tiny allen head bolt meaning you will end up having to drill the centre of it out and using an easy out. (Ask me how I know
) If this should happen it an M5 x 0.8mm x 8mm screw.
Good luck.