Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackMind
Hi guys,
I'm a new GasGas owner and a bit lost as to where to begin tuning my suspension. I just picked up a 2011 Nambotin and love the bike. It's a blast to ride. The only complaint I have is that the suspension is obviously not set correctly for me. I can feel every pebble on the path and for Colorado that's a bad thing give the amount of large rocks I ride on the trail. Would anybody on here be willing to give me some quick and dirty answers to help me get started. I have searched and read several suspension related posts but would really love it if I could get some newbie responses to a handful of questions.
So here goes:
1. Are there any fork bleeders that will fit the MARZOCCHI 48mm Fork or is my only option to pull the caps and drill / tap them to fit some? I read a few posts and it looks like they just don't make one?
2. I'm 182lb without gear. What size shock spring should I look for and where can I buy it? Looks like from other posts a 5.4 would work for me? guessing I'm 205ish with gear.
3. Is there a conversion kit to add actual clickers to the forks or do I have to use a flat head every time I want to adjust?
4. Once I get the shock spring preload setup according top the pinned thread what would be a good base setting to start with on the shocks to make them a little less harsh in the rocks?
5. I've got the OHLINS TTX on this bike and it has a CSC adjustment that adjusts both comp and rebound if I'm reading the manual correct? But hell if I know where this little gem is on the shock and which way to adjust it? Out (loosen) for trails and In (tighten for MX)? I am guessing my bike is setup more for an MX track than the single track trails I ride which would be a good explanation on why it feels so tight. That and the dealer cranked my spring WAY down to set the ride sag, which I intend to fix as soon as I can find a spring.
6. Last question, what is the easiest way to set the shock spring preload? Doesn't look like I can get to it on the bike. Should I just remove the link and drop the spring? But with that said, how would you adjust it for race sag etc. or should I just set the spring preload to the suggested 8 - 10mm and ride it? I found this post, is that really what I have to go through haha: http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...y+shock+spring
I'm sorry for so many newbie questions and genuinely appreciate any advice on getting the bike setup without having to read through 500 posts of suspension notes. |
Hi and welcome to the forum. I don't have any experience with the 48mm Zokes but I'll do my best to try and answer some of your questions.
1. No idea
2. I would suggest a respring all around. If anything its the forks which are undersprung from the factory. I believe they come with .42s and you will want around .46 for your weight. A 5.4 will put you in the range in the rear. Try and contact one of the suspension tuners on here and ask for their advice. I'm 75kgs no gear, 95kgs in gear using TTX front and rear in a 2010. I use .46 fronts and 5.4 rear.
3. The flat blade is the clicker. Not hard to carry a little screw driver.
4. Once you have the correct spring rate and set the sag 35/110mm less preload better (as per thread). You will want to tune the suspension with the clickers. Heaps of reading on this if you punch it in the google machine. If you still can't dial it in then you may require a revalve.
5. The CSC adjuster does affect overall flow through the shock. Out will make it plusher. In fiormer. Ohlins suggests using the stock clicker positions for comp and rebound and adjusting the csc first to get a plush but stable ride and then fine tuning the clickers. The csc is located on the bottom shaft of the shock. Its well hidden between the linkage and is really hard to get access to, especially on the trail. The suspension will take some time to break in if its a new bike. It will get softer with some ride time. How do you know the dealer has cranked down the preload a lot? You need to measure the length of the uncompressed spring, and then the compressed spring and and subtract them from eachother to get the preload. You can't just measure from the top of the shock body.
6. Changing the preload is as easy as putting the bike on the stand (so there is no weight pushing down on the spring). Loosen the top retainer above the spring (allen head clamp). Spray a little wd40 or something on the threads on the shock if need be. You should be able to reach in grab the spring itself and turn the whole spring by hand. Clockwise = more preload, anti clockwise is less.