Surely with all the differing suspension components on GG from year to year and also between models of the same year (sachs, WP, Marzocchi, reiger, kyb) this is all a bit superficial. And when you take into account the differing rider skill levels, type of terrain etc. it makes the pinch-of-salt even bigger.
I think there are a few key things that should be guiding your choice of spring. The first is obviously your sag (you can even do it for the front but a lot less accurately – rider sag should be about 33% of the total travel – but better to just see if you are using all of your available travel (without bottoming out where you shouldn’t) this can be done by putting a zip tie around your fork stanchion and seeing where it is sitting at the end of a ride)
The second thing is to work with a tuner – you can go with non-standard setup like soft valving and hard springs for example. If you are buying your springs from the tuner it may allow you the opportunity to try out different rates before settling on the final decision and paying for them – but worst case scenario is that they will be able to guide you to the best spring rate just based on the sag numbers (if your sag is out you may know which way to go – harder or softer – but not know by how much). I also believe that there is a need to change the valving to suit your springs.
The short of it all is that you are half way there just by being on this page. If you are considering changing your springs it means you are prepared to spend money on the most important part of your ride. I had spent a heck of a lot of money on my bikes suspension before I replaced any damaged plastics or stickers.
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2003 txt250 Pro
2013 Ossa 280i
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