Quote:
Originally Posted by Krasi
So, the front bottom clicker (Pic 2) determines how fast/easy/"softly" the fork compresses, i.e. goes up, right? The "fully seated" position is the hardest setting, i.e. the fork is slower/more difficult/"harder" to compress?
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You are almost correct, but made a slight typo above (see my red highlighted words). I will try to describe it another way...
Compression is when the distance between fender and wheel axle gets smaller/less. So, when riding the bike, this is when the wheel travels upward towards the fender or your bike is moving towards the ground (depends on your reference point). In any case, it is when you are squeezing the two ends of the suspension fork or shock together (i.e., compressing). If you continue to compress the fork or shock, you will at some point "bottom out" your suspension and the tire will rub the fender. The extension movement (also called rebound) is the opposite behavior.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krasi
The front top clicker (Pic 1) does the same, but for the extension movement of the fork, correct?
And there is no spring preload for the front springs (at least not on my forks)?
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You are correct on both questions. While there is no "external" spring preload adjuster (like on KTM SX/XC forks), you can manually change the spring preload. If you remove the forks from the bike and remove the top cap (like you were going to change the fork oil), you can change the length of the plastic spacer that compresses or adds preload to the coil spring. You will have to do some slight disassembly, but the spacer length can be modified. A PVC water pipe from your local hardware store can be used as a substitute (just match up a similar diameter). Personally, I have not changed my front spring preload... only the rear spring preload.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krasi
The same applies for the rear shosk too I suppose, but I'll need some help with the slow and fast compression.
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I didn't want to provide too many details initially (keep it simple)
but you want to learn... so here it goes:
The low and high speed compression adjusters are slightly misleading. The high speed (larger adjuster nut) is not really "high" speed... but rather it controls motion in a "higher" low speed range or mid speed level. Actual high speed changes are really done by a suspension tuner who revalves the piston and staging of the shim discs.
These two compression adjusters (low and high) are only changing the oil flow thru a bypass hole. So, when you turn the adjuster screw or nut fully seated, oil is being restricted from flowing thru this bypass hole. It now has to flow through the piston valving. Think of it as water faucet... when you turn the faucet handle closed/off, then the water stops flowing. For suspension, when you make the oil flow more slowly/more restricted... it makes the suspension motion slower and feels more firm.
Conversely, if you back out these adjusters away from fully seated, then you are "opening" the water faucet. Your suspension now has oil flowing more freely/less restricted, so it makes the suspension motion faster and feel more soft.
Well, this reply is getting a bit wordy now... sorry if I'm rambling.
Just a final note... I mentioned the 2 compression adjusters are like low and "higher" low speed adjusters. The best way to remember these are the following: if you want to help control/adjust small suspension motions (like roots and rocks) you will focus on the low speed screw. If you want to help control/adjust larger suspension motions (like whoops and jumps) you will focus on the high speed screw/large knob.
Also, a word of caution... adjusting the Rebound screw will also have some effect on the low speed "compression" motion. This may confuse you but the rebound adjuster controls oil flow thru the center of the shock rod (bypass hole). The center of the shock rod (bypass hole) is also active during compression motion. So, a rebound screw adjustment may also need to be combined with a low speed compression screw adjustment to counteract its effect. Sorry if this just confused everyone... but this is something to consider if you are making a rebound damping change... so only make small changes like 1-2 clicks of the rebound screw. Ride the bike over the same terrain, then make another minor adjustment, etc..
Hope this helps!