Nice copy/paste Nath
I'm glad someone else took the time to answer this. I wasn't looking forward to all the typing again.
I have a few blurbs saved in text docs. I know I've said it before, but I really should do a sticky with all the dribbs and drabs of info that I've put into threads and PMs.
Markus,
Generally clip for clip, you'll want to run the N3Ex needle one clip position richer than you would the stock N1Ex, or the Suzuki NEDx so in that case you could say the N3xx needle is a bit leaner than the NExx needle. An N8Rx uses the same taper profile as the N3Cx and is a full clip richer.
There is actually a whole range of needles that share the same taper profile as the N3xx.
In 1/2 clip variations from leanest to richest they are...
N89x=leanest
N3Cx
N3Ex
N8Rx
N2Zx
N4Dx
N3Vx
N4Ax
N6Mx=richest
Nxxx needle diameters
D=2.685mm
E=2.695mm (JD Blue)
F=2.705mm
G= 2.715
H= 2.725
W/I=2.735 (JD Red)
J= 2.745
K=2.755
Generally for the 2010+ models which have shipped with the 38mm PWK AS2 (flat cap stamped 38 on top, and shallow bowl) a 300cc engine will respond well to a J diameter needle, a 250 likes a W/I (depending on needle), and a 200 will take a H. However in saying that its being picky and by shuffling pilots you can still get a H to work in a 300. Richer will be a bit torquier. All these were tested in Australian conditions with our fuels (98RON) and temps between 15-35C.
If you find you have an AS1 (round threaded cap) most report the JD Blue as the best needle for the job. If you have a 36mm AS2...
