Look at situation differently. Everything starts at the single winding on the stator that produces the ignition power. You need to confirm that this winding is creating power.
It goes something like this: single winding 30V, CDI output 300V, coil output 30,000V. If you get a good resistance reading on the impulse coil (flywheel pickup), it is probably fine. It should measure about 100 ohms on the red and green wires. Keep in mind that the kill button grounds out the initial 30V from the single winding, so any issue that grounds out the single winding means that the whole system fails to work.
The workshop manual calls the single winding the "exciter" and says it should measure 12.7 ohms. This is on the black/red and red/white wires. You should be able to connect an AC voltmeter to these wires and get a voltage reading when the engine is kicked over (wires disconnected). The same thing should happen with the wires connected. If not, there may be a short in the wiring. You then need to cut the harness open to look for defects.
If everything tests OK, then swapping out the ignition coil is next. After that you have to change out the CDI. In some cases the connector pins do not make good connections with the CDI terminals so you need to check that as well.
I am assuming you have already checked the plug, plug cap and high tension lead. Is the frame rusty at the engine mounts? This can prevent proper grounding the same as rusting at the ignition coil mount causes trouble.
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2011 EC250E
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