Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikie1
Thanks for the reply, Nate-
The diode module connector (connector "J" in the wiring diagram) is five pins, the OBD is a different one and four pins (not shown in the wiring diagram). The owner's manual shows them in different locations, and I just confirmed it on the bike-- the OBD reader connector is four pins, comes straight off and sits right next to the ECU, and it's taped up, also.
I did install the leads of the USB charger directly to the battery, just has I did three years ago on my CRF450x, which also has a lithium battery installed. The stator on the EC300 supposedly puts out 92 watts. Since my last two rides have been clearing trail, I've had my chainsaw mounted up front and the headlight removed-- so the stator has no other load on it, except for the rear light (very bright, even with a dead battery). Should be plenty to charge the battery.
I did put a good charge on the battery, and it is plenty to start the bike. But there is still no charge getting to the battery from the regulator. I believe the regulator is good, since, with the bike running, I'm getting 14+ volts measured at the headlight connector and at the taillight. Shouldn't I be able to disconnect the positive terminal from the battery with the bike running, and measure voltage at the battery cables?
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Yes, what you refer to is the diode block. It is not a relay and as far as I know it has nothing to do with the lights.
The way you measure is wrong. You need the battery connected not disconnected to get a correct reading. Start the bike with a full battery, the OEM one should at least show 13.3 volts, even more if it was just fully charged. Start the bike, connect your voltmeter or multimeter to the battery poles. You may measure between 13 and 13.4 volts only when the bike is idling. Rev it and hold it at higher revs, the voltmeter should show at least 14 volts and a maximum of 14.7 volts.
If you measure always the same value and it does not change the battery wont be charged.