I used to have this problem with a KX 500 that I put steel plates in. If I rode it in really tight singletrack or technical terrain for long enough to severely overheat the trans and motor, the steel plates would warp and turn blue. On that big bike with all the power it had I had to really slip the clutch to help tame the power in technical terrain. This problem only happened in the worst clutch slipping areas and on rare occasions.
I would put them between 2 pieces of 2x12 wood and hammer them back as close as possible to straight. All of the plates would never be warped, only some, and some would be more warped than others. After getting them as straight as possible I would switch the position, use a different order. It would work until the next time I had to really slip the clutch alot for a long time. The clutch never stopped working but would get alternatively grabby then slip/grab off and on. Until I started using the steel plates the trans fluid would have noticeable aluminum particles in the fluid.
Finally after a couple years the stock clutch basket got so worn out I had to replace it with a billet basket. At that time I replaced the plates that were the most worn, and all the fiber plates which stopped the warping.
Later I learned that that particular bike's clutch needed a certain type of tranny fluid, or needed any good synthetic trans fluid with an additive to stay cool and not slip or grab. I got the info on the additive from the Kawasaki desert race team which was run by Roeseler at that time. I cannot remember the name of the additive but it sure worked. Even when hot the clutch would not be grabby or slip. I think I eventually ended up using synthetic automotive trans fluid from B&M with the additive. I think the additive was also an automotive racing product, but I can't remember who made it.
I'd do a search to find what is the most used trans fluid by users of this site. You'll get a zillion different answers and probably start some argument, but all you may need is a different type fluid. You will rarely go wrong using whatever the factory recommends, but sometimes you can find something even better. Keep in mind that what some factory racers use may not be best for you. The pros change fluid very often, and may not even have the stock clutch parts in their bike although they might not want to admit that
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