Update:
Today I disassembled the clutch master cylinder, cleaned it with brake cleaner and pressurized air, then oiled it with hydraulic oil and installed an OEM repair kit. The original parts looked mint so I did not expect the repair kit to change anything. I just took it as my dealer had one on the shelf. I reverse bled the system.
Test ride, but nothing changed, everything the same as before. When hot engine is stopped for longer than 30 seconds I cant start it in gear or if I put it in gear it instantly dies.
In the meantime I am convinced it's the clutch and it has nothing to do with its actuation system. I will however, install the new slave as soon as it arrives but I really doubt it will change anything.
After the frustrating recognition that whatever I did to the hydraulic system has no effect I changed the gear oil and found, that I had filled 900cc, which is 100cc too much. The manual states that oil level has to be between min and max dots on the sight glass. (see attached screen shots) And after refilling 800cc and letting the engine warm up and cool down, the level is exactly at the maximum mark.
The test ride showed that with less and thinner oil it was considerably better, but far from perfect. My theory, when the engine is shut off all oil returns at the bottom of the engine and causes the drag.
What I don't understand is why the problem did not appear the first 3 hours of (light) use without clutch slipping. It started after about 4 hours. Maybe the clutch friction plates have swollen up or they need some abuse.
So all I will do is ride the fucking thing and see what happens. Enough time and money wasted...
