Was still too rich with the JD Blue on the ride the other weekend.
Idle was pretty good it rarely stalled on me even with the clutch in on steep technical downhill sections, air screw was about 1.5 turns. Probably could have turned it out a bit more as it did hesitate ever so slightly off idle once it warmed up.
I think the main was spot on as once it got on the pipe it screamed and pulled nicely.
Remembering this was all at 1100m and on a 28 deg C day.
The JD Blue in clip 2 still broke up rich from off idle until 2/3 throttle, it has to be the diameter of the needle right?
Jakobi you posted this info over on DBW:
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Jakobi
From my notes:
I have kind of worked out a break down of the OEM Needle codes.
N-X-Y-Z (N3EJ) (NEDW) (NOZI) (N1EF)
N - OEM Needle identifier
X - Taper profile
Y - Clip position/length
Z - Diameter
The X/Y doesn't seem to share any common ground between needles. 3 seems to be yamahas 2 taper needle. E is suzi's 3 taper, O is ktms 3 taper, 1 is the stock GG needle also a 3 taper. I'm not sure if the tapers are the same between the NOZ/N1E. They do feel very similar. The Y part which indicates clip pos/length is also paired up with the taper profile (x) to form a needle with the same properties that allows for half clip adjustments. Exmaples N3Ex/N3Cx, NEDx/NECx. I have a feeling NOZx/N1Ex is the exception and are half clip different using the same taper.
Z is the needle diameter of the straight section of the needle. It covers idle to 1/8-1/4 depending on the needles taper profile. Sizes range from:
Nxxx needle diameters
D=2.685mm
E=2.695mm (JD Blue)
F=2.705mm
G= 2.715
H= 2.725
W/I=2.735 (JD Red)
J= 2.745
K=2.755
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If I'm not happy with the JD Blue as its too rich a diameter and not happy with the JD Red as its too lean a diameter (though I am yet to try the red in the oval bore) should I be looking at trying a F or G diameter?